Winery Wiki

Question:

Since we had the topic of winemaking pop up recently I decided to throw another wine kit in the fermenter.  It was one of the 15L Brew King kits, and so 10 minutes later I was done and thinking thus…. I always have made white wines and might try some red wines.  Would it be advisable to have separate plastic primary fermenters for the reds?  I know the whites really leave no aromatics in the plastic, but my concern was whether the reds would stain and perhaps leave aromatics behind. Cheers, Mike

Response:

Since we had the topic of winemaking pop up recently I decided to throw another wine kit in the fermenter.  It was one of the 15L Brew King kits, and so 10 minutes later I was done and thinking thus…. I always have made white wines and might try some red wines.  Would it be advisable to have separate plastic primary fermenters for the reds?  I know the whites really leave no aromatics in the plastic, but my concern was whether the reds would stain and perhaps leave aromatics behind.

I wouldn’t worry about it. I primary ferment my reds in 32 gallon plastic containers – they clean up easily and have no residual odor. If the wine was left in contact for an extended period there might be a problem, but pimary fermentation (at least with whole fruit) is only about a week. I’ve been using the same containers for 4 years and they’re not stained.

Response:

I use the same 15 gal plastic carboy for beer, mead, cider, red/white wines et. al. without any trouble.  I just soak in bleach between batches. – Bill Success lies in achieving the top of the food chain. — Jubal Harshaw, 1904-

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Since we had the topic of winemaking pop up recently I decided to throw another wine kit in the fermenter.  It was one of the 15L Brew King kits, and so 10 minutes later I was done and thinking thus…. I always have made white wines and might try some red wines.  Would it be advisable to have separate plastic primary fermenters for the reds?  I know the whites really leave no aromatics in the plastic, but my concern was whether the reds would stain and perhaps leave aromatics behind. Cheers, Mike

Response:

Mike, I use a 7.5 gallon primary for the wines. It’s plastic but has not been stained yet. With some of the really dark reds, it has retained the yeastwine odor for a week or so but no bad tastes have been released into other wines. I just make sure the primary has enough time to loose the smell before using it again. I’m sure a quick bleach bath would do it too if you couldn’t wait it out… If it even has a smell left over. Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Since we had the topic of winemaking pop up recently I decided to throw another wine kit in the fermenter.  It was one of the 15L Brew King kits, and so 10 minutes later I was done and thinking thus…. I always have made white wines and might try some red wines.  Would it be advisable to have separate plastic primary fermenters for the reds?  I know the whites really leave no aromatics in the plastic, but my concern was whether the reds would stain and perhaps leave aromatics behind. Cheers, Mike

Response:

Actually, my plastic bucket tends to retain more odor from batches of beer than batches of wine. No staining from either, yet. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Mike, I use a 7.5 gallon primary for the wines. It’s plastic but has not been stained yet. With some of the really dark reds, it has retained the yeastwine odor for a week or so but no bad tastes have been released into other wines. I just make sure the primary has enough time to loose the smell before using it again. I’m sure a quick bleach bath would do it too if you couldn’t wait it out… If it even has a smell left over. Jon. —     Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com    Home of the JJ&C Railroad Since we had the topic of winemaking pop up recently I decided to throw another wine kit in the fermenter.  It was one of the 15L Brew King kits, and so 10 minutes later I was done and thinking thus…. I always have made white wines and might try some red wines.  Would it be advisable to have separate plastic primary fermenters for the reds?  I know the whites really leave no aromatics in the plastic, but my concern was whether the reds would stain and perhaps leave aromatics behind. Cheers, Mike

Response:

Actually, my plastic bucket tends to retain more odor from batches of beer than batches of wine. No staining from either, yet.

Beer will eventually stain a fermenter, but I never found it would affect the subsequent batches.  You can of course soak in a bleach solution and remove any staining if when it happens it bothers you…;) Cheers, Mike

Response:

I cannot get rid of my stains or odors even from overnight soaks in bleach, and in high concentrations.

What are ya brewin’…crude oil…;) It could be the type of plastic… Cheers, Mike

Response:

I normally don’t bother trying to remove the odor, since I don’t notice any effect on later batches.  I do give my buckets a deep cleaning after several batches, though, and Oxiclean definitely works better than bleach.  I use 5 scoops for 5 gallons, and hot water. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I cannot get rid of my stains or odors even from overnight soaks in bleach, and in high concentrations.

Response:

Question:

Okay, so as long as i can’t smell anything after, it will be okay, regarldess of staining i have bleach, PBW and star-san John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -A carboy should clean up fine. A plastic bucket may get stained, but a dilute bleach solution soak should take care of it. ben

Response:

John, I’d be more worried after making a Lambic than after making a wine!!!! Cheers, Paul – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Okay, so as long as i can’t smell anything after, it will be okay, regarldess of staining i have bleach, PBW and star-san John A carboy should clean up fine. A plastic bucket may get stained, but a dilute bleach solution soak should take care of it. ben

Response:

If i use a carboy or plastic bucket to make wine, will it be impossible to clean enough to use for brewing beer later? (i mean the smell etc.)

I haven’t had any problems with it yet after maybe half a dozen wines of varying kinds (raspberry, strawberry and a "second" grape wine would be the red ones). I’ve actually had more trouble getting the beer smell out of the bucket, and that just requires a soak with Straight-A or another cleanser.

Response:

i’m sorry, i don’t follow you. Do you mean to say i will have to buy a new bucket for ales? John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If i use a carboy or plastic bucket to make wine, will it be impossible to clean enough to use for brewing beer later? (i mean the smell etc.) It will probably help!!! — Paul

Response:

If i use a carboy or plastic bucket to make wine, will it be impossible to clean enough to use for brewing beer later? (i mean the smell etc.)

A carboy should clean up fine. A plastic bucket may get stained, but a dilute bleach solution soak should take care of it. ben

Response:

If i use a carboy or plastic bucket to make wine, will it be impossible to clean enough to use for brewing beer later? (i mean the smell etc.)

It will probably help!!! — Paul

Response:

It’s a red wine kit, i forgot to mention that. i have a fairly limited supply of buckets and carboys…i should really go get back the 2 plastic carboys and 2 buckets a buddy of mine ‘borrowed’ back in may…. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If i use a carboy or plastic bucket to make wine, will it be impossible to clean enough to use for brewing beer later? (i mean the smell etc.) I have only made whites, but there is no real smell after them, and cleanup is much less than for beer. Cheers, Mike

Response:

If i use a carboy or plastic bucket to make wine, will it be impossible to clean enough to use for brewing beer later? (i mean the smell etc.)

I have only made whites, but there is no real smell after them, and cleanup is much less than for beer. Cheers, Mike

Response:

If i use a carboy or plastic bucket to make wine, will it be impossible to clean enough to use for brewing beer later? (i mean the smell etc.) John

Response:

Question:

Might be a good time to re-post an article first posted by Lum back in 2001. My last thoughts on this were that it would be preferable to move in the direction of not having to filter since the wine will usually clear on it’s own and "the less you mess" the better. However, if you do decide to filter there is no evidence that its effects are noticeable  by even the best testers. Don ***** STERILE FILTRATION-SCIENCE VS MYTH by Steve Roberta Department of Viticulture & Enology University of California, Davis September 1994 The question of whether sterile filtration harms wine flavor evokes much debate and emotion. Although there is little scientific research on the question, filtration proponents rightly emphasize the financial risks incurred by producers who choose not to filter. These risks are real. Filtration proponents point out that wine flavor components are smaller than the pore size of the sterile filter membrane, and that insoluble filtrate doesn’t possess significant flavor, anyway. Thus, proponents argue that there is no reason why filtration, properly performed, should affect wine flavor. In the other camp are filtration opponents who believe they do taste a difference. They claim filtration strips wine of significant properties and flavors. However, one is hard pressed to obtain from opponents just what these properties and flavors are supposed to be. Nevertheless, they observe filtrate being removed from a wine and associate filtration with the taste difference they perceive. Thus, they conclude filtration is detrimental to wine flavor. Encouraged by our professors to decide for ourselves who is right, we recently conducted an experiment which asked the question, "does sterile filtration create changes in wine that consumers can taste?"  From a supermarket shelf we selected five well-known, unfiltered Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon – vintage 1990 to 1992; and from the UC Davis cellar, one unfiltered Pinot Noir – vintage 1984. Four bottles of each wine were combined under nitrogen to eliminate bottle variation; half of the wine was sterile filtered, the other half was not filtered but was similarly processed. Over five evenings our trained taste panel, consisting of 12 volunteer judges (none of whom were connected with the department of enology and viticulture at UC Davis) evaluated the wines by duo-trio testing. Two repetitions of each flight of each wine resulted in a mean correct response of 54%. The best correct response of any one panelist was 66.6%. There was no variance by wine, flight or panelist. guessing.  We thus conclude that the panelists could not detect a difference between filtered and unfiltered red wines, and from this can infer that there was no detectable difference in wine flavor as a result of the filtration. *****

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Louise,     I suggest you learned how to make your wine clear without filtering before you even consider filtering. The exception I would make would be if you are planning on entering the wine into a competition. Also contrary to what some might believe- filtering a cloudy wine at home is not an easy or cheap thing to do and should be avoided.      I think alot of people are confused about fining agents. Often times they are used to address a "problem", and a bi-product of their use is added wine clarity. For example: Bentonite- typically added to white and blush wines. Main purpose is hot stability and the removal of excess protein. It’s addition generally will take the slight haze out of white wines, but that is not it’s main purpose in my opinion. Time will clear most wines, but it wont necessarily make it a stable wine. If I gave you a glass of my apple wine that I just bottled you would say it is very clear, and probably would not know that I didn’t filter it. If however you put it next to a glass that I had filtered you most likely could tell the difference immediately as the filtered wine looks "polished". HTH John Dixon

Very well put John. I would add that the main reason to filter wine is to insure that all of the microbes (yeast and bacteria) have been removed creating a mircrobia stable wine.  There are also many beneficial side effects to filtration as in polishing of both the appearance and taste.   Furthermore, small particulate matter in the wine can eventually lead to reduced aromas that can develop during bottle aging.  If there are any detrimental effects from filtration (which I’ve never sited personally), the positive effects would far out way them. If you don’t test your wines with innovative techniques like judicious fining with a variety of agents, and careful filtration, you will never know whether your wine has reached it’s full potential. clyde

Response:

Louise,     I suggest you learned how to make your wine clear without filtering before you even consider filtering. The exception I would make would be if you are planning on entering the wine into a competition. Also contrary to what some might believe- filtering a cloudy wine at home is not an easy or cheap thing to do and should be avoided.      I think alot of people are confused about fining agents. Often times they are used to address a "problem", and a bi-product of their use is added wine clarity. For example: Bentonite- typically added to white and blush wines. Main purpose is hot stability and the removal of excess protein. It’s addition generally will take the slight haze out of white wines, but that is not it’s main purpose in my opinion. Time will clear most wines, but it wont necessarily make it a stable wine. If I gave you a glass of my apple wine that I just bottled you would say it is very clear, and probably would not know that I didn’t filter it. If however you put it next to a glass that I had filtered you most likely could tell the difference immediately as the filtered wine looks "polished". HTH John Dixon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My first wine kit has been in the carboy for 1 month now and I am wondering what everyone out there does at bottling time. I am told by my LHBS that I should filter before bottling but as I read the many posts on this newsgroup, I’ve notice that many of you don’t filter and let it sit in the carboy longer. What are the pros and cons to each? — Louise:o) http://pages.infinit.net/weez1959/

Response:

My first wine kit has been in the carboy for 1 month now and I am wondering what everyone out there does at bottling time. I am told by my LHBS that I should filter before bottling but as I read the many posts on this newsgroup, I’ve notice that many of you don’t filter and let it sit in the carboy longer. What are the pros and cons to each? — Louise:o) http://pages.infinit.net/weez1959/

Response:

From my reading filtering should be done on an as needed basis – if you need the wine in the bottle quickly and want no hazing or cloudy quality in the wine then filter it. If you don’t mind the haze you can bottle whenever you feel like once the wine is finished (assuming you’ve done the bulk aging you want to do). If you can though, it may be worth leaving it for a bit longer to see if anything settles out of the wine. Others may , of course, disagree with me I’m only a newbie! Warren PS – anyone in south east queensland australia know of a good place to actually get grapes? once the picking time comes I’d like to have a go at doing real grapes for a change rather than concentrate (not that concentrate has turned out to be too bad, it’s a good as any relatively cheap bottle you can get at a store!)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My first wine kit has been in the carboy for 1 month now and I am wondering what everyone out there does at bottling time. I am told by my LHBS that I should filter before bottling but as I read the many posts on this newsgroup, I’ve notice that many of you don’t filter and let it sit in the carboy longer. What are the pros and cons to each? — Louise:o) http://pages.infinit.net/weez1959/

Response:

Question:

There is very little sediment in the bottle as, probably because I racked it on 12/13. The wine is just very cloudy. Any ideas of clearing the wine, or is it OK to just let it sit and settle if there is little or no sediment? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Will, Is there a lot of sediment on the bottom of the gallon container?  I went back to look at your other posts, has it been in the secondary since 11/23? If you’ve got a lot of sediment and it is not bubbling, I would rack it again and top up to help the clearing process.  From a lot of the threads I’ve seen on this site about wine kits, there’s directions as to when to rack.  However, with a fruit wine; everything I’ve read says to not let it sit on the lees for to long because it will impart certain not so likeable flavors.   For example, I’ve got a strawberry wine which has been in the secondary since Dec. 1 – there’s a fair amount of sediment, so as soon as the bubbling slows way down, I will rack it to a new secondary and top up. I’ve never made pear, but I’ve noticed with my raspberry, cherry, and now strawberry, that I will rack probably within a month after I’ve racked off the fruit into the secondary.  It is up to you though, and others here may have other suggestions.  I’ve found Jack Keller’s wine site is a good one, and so it Terry Garey’s.  Good-luck. Darlene The Hydrometer is slightly under 1.000. The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes .I will be a regular to this group. Next question: The wine is very cloudy. Any thoughts on clearing the wine (let it sit?)?  Thanks for the help. Will, Your initial fermentation may very well be over (sounds like you want a dry wine).  If your hydrometer says about 1.000, then it is probably over. If the hydrometer reading is higher then you might have a little bit to go. Let us know what your hydrometer reads.  I suspect your wine is okay. Watch for the wine to clear now and rack (as per directions) or depending on how much lees you have settling on the bottom.  What kind of wine, and size of secondary do you have?  If you’re doing a wine kit, then let the group know, there’s a lot of experience on this site.  Hang in there. Darlene I have a hydrometer, I just didn’t think to use it at this point. Is it possible for it to be finished, it went into the secondary on 11/23? Will,     My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes.

Response:

Will, I would let it sit, see how it does in another month, and watch to see how much sediment falls out.  Okay. Darlene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There is very little sediment in the bottle as, probably because I racked it on 12/13. The wine is just very cloudy. Any ideas of clearing the wine, or is it OK to just let it sit and settle if there is little or no sediment? Will, Is there a lot of sediment on the bottom of the gallon container?  I went back to look at your other posts, has it been in the secondary since 11/23? If you’ve got a lot of sediment and it is not bubbling, I would rack it again and top up to help the clearing process.  From a lot of the threads I’ve seen on this site about wine kits, there’s directions as to when to rack.  However, with a fruit wine; everything I’ve read says to not let it sit on the lees for to long because it will impart certain not so likeable flavors.   For example, I’ve got a strawberry wine which has been in the secondary since Dec. 1 – there’s a fair amount of sediment, so as soon as the bubbling slows way down, I will rack it to a new secondary and top up. I’ve never made pear, but I’ve noticed with my raspberry, cherry, and now strawberry, that I will rack probably within a month after I’ve racked off the fruit into the secondary.  It is up to you though, and others here may have other suggestions.  I’ve found Jack Keller’s wine site is a good one, and so it Terry Garey’s.  Good-luck. Darlene The Hydrometer is slightly under 1.000. The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes .I will be a regular to this group. Next question: The wine is very cloudy. Any thoughts on clearing the wine (let it sit?)?  Thanks for the help. Will, Your initial fermentation may very well be over (sounds like you want a dry wine).  If your hydrometer says about 1.000, then it is probably over. If the hydrometer reading is higher then you might have a little bit to go. Let us know what your hydrometer reads.  I suspect your wine is okay. Watch for the wine to clear now and rack (as per directions) or depending on how much lees you have settling on the bottom.  What kind of wine, and size of secondary do you have?  If you’re doing a wine kit, then let the group know, there’s a lot of experience on this site.  Hang in there. Darlene I have a hydrometer, I just didn’t think to use it at this point. Is it possible for it to be finished, it went into the secondary on 11/23? Will,     My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes.

Response:

Will,      That is plenty of time for a fermentation to finish. Some are over in a few days with higher temperatures and aggressive yeast. Fermentation is complete if the hydrometer read around .995 or below with average alcohol content. It could very well be done above that, but there would normally be some residual sugars left and a fermentation could renew later if the wine is not stabilized. HTH John Dixon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a hydrometer, I just didn’t think to use it at this point. Is it possible for it to be finished, it went into the secondary on 11/23? Will,     My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will

Response:

Will, Is there a lot of sediment on the bottom of the gallon container?  I went back to look at your other posts, has it been in the secondary since 11/23? If you’ve got a lot of sediment and it is not bubbling, I would rack it again and top up to help the clearing process.  From a lot of the threads I’ve seen on this site about wine kits, there’s directions as to when to rack.  However, with a fruit wine; everything I’ve read says to not let it sit on the lees for to long because it will impart certain not so likeable flavors.   For example, I’ve got a strawberry wine which has been in the secondary since Dec. 1 – there’s a fair amount of sediment, so as soon as the bubbling slows way down, I will rack it to a new secondary and top up. I’ve never made pear, but I’ve noticed with my raspberry, cherry, and now strawberry, that I will rack probably within a month after I’ve racked off the fruit into the secondary.  It is up to you though, and others here may have other suggestions.  I’ve found Jack Keller’s wine site is a good one, and so it Terry Garey’s.  Good-luck. Darlene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The Hydrometer is slightly under 1.000. The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes .I will be a regular to this group. Next question: The wine is very cloudy. Any thoughts on clearing the wine (let it sit?)?  Thanks for the help. Will, Your initial fermentation may very well be over (sounds like you want a dry wine).  If your hydrometer says about 1.000, then it is probably over. If the hydrometer reading is higher then you might have a little bit to go. Let us know what your hydrometer reads.  I suspect your wine is okay. Watch for the wine to clear now and rack (as per directions) or depending on how much lees you have settling on the bottom.  What kind of wine, and size of secondary do you have?  If you’re doing a wine kit, then let the group know, there’s a lot of experience on this site.  Hang in there. Darlene I have a hydrometer, I just didn’t think to use it at this point. Is it possible for it to be finished, it went into the secondary on 11/23? Will,     My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes.

Response:

The Hydrometer is slightly under 1.000. The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes .I will be a regular to this group. Next question: The wine is very cloudy. Any thoughts on clearing the wine (let it sit?)?  Thanks for the help.   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Will, Your initial fermentation may very well be over (sounds like you want a dry wine).  If your hydrometer says about 1.000, then it is probably over.  If the hydrometer reading is higher then you might have a little bit to go. Let us know what your hydrometer reads.  I suspect your wine is okay.  Watch for the wine to clear now and rack (as per directions) or depending on how much lees you have settling on the bottom.  What kind of wine, and size of secondary do you have?  If you’re doing a wine kit, then let the group know, there’s a lot of experience on this site.  Hang in there. Darlene I have a hydrometer, I just didn’t think to use it at this point. Is it possible for it to be finished, it went into the secondary on 11/23? Will,     My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will

The wine is a pear (Anjou). It’s been a while since I have made wine, so I’m only doing 1 gallon this time around. I believe I have been bitten by the bug again. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon, so I have access to a lot of fruit, including wine grapes.

Response:

Will, Your initial fermentation may very well be over (sounds like you want a dry wine).  If your hydrometer says about 1.000, then it is probably over.  If the hydrometer reading is higher then you might have a little bit to go. Let us know what your hydrometer reads.  I suspect your wine is okay.  Watch for the wine to clear now and rack (as per directions) or depending on how much lees you have settling on the bottom.  What kind of wine, and size of secondary do you have?  If you’re doing a wine kit, then let the group know, there’s a lot of experience on this site.  Hang in there. Darlene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a hydrometer, I just didn’t think to use it at this point. Is it possible for it to be finished, it went into the secondary on 11/23? Will,     My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will

Response:

I have a hydrometer, I just didn’t think to use it at this point. Is it possible for it to be finished, it went into the secondary on 11/23? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Will,     My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will

Response:

I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice?                                         Thanks                                                 Will

Response:

Will,      My advice is for you to buy a hyrometer for about $5. and find out if the fermentation is done. I suspect that it is, and there is nothing wrong with your wine. Do yourself a big favor and eliminate all air space above the wine that you can so you have an inch or less of "headspace". Let us know if you need any more help such as how to understand the reading of the hydrometer once you buy it. HTH John Dixon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think I waited too long to rack my wine the first time. I thought it was 3 weeks, but I was closer to 4. When I racked the wine, fermentation had ceased. It’s been 24 hours since I racked, and no activity. Could the fermentation be stuck? Is it too late to add yeast starter? I sampled the wine while transferring, and it already tastes dry, which I was shooting for. Any advice? Thanks Will

Response:

Question:

One thing I might also try next time is to use some Zymaflore ST yeast – specifically designed for making sweet wines and dies off with a 50ppm dose of SO2. The mad kiwi.

Where can I get more information (technical) on this yeast ??  TIA

Response:

Have a look at www.scottlab.com. They will happily sell to home winemakers, but the yeast only comes in 500g (about 1lb) packages. Kiwi – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – One thing I might also try next time is to use some Zymaflore ST yeast – specifically designed for making sweet wines and dies off with a 50ppm dose of SO2. The mad kiwi. Where can I get more information (technical) on this yeast ??  TIA

Response:

Outstanding !!  Thank you, thank you !!  This is the first yeast I have seen that can be stopped by SO2 levels below the 2ppm molecular threshold.  If it works as advertised, it could open up a whole *bunch* of new possibilities for me.  Thanks again !!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Have a look at www.scottlab.com. They will happily sell to home winemakers, but the yeast only comes in 500g (about 1lb) packages. Kiwi One thing I might also try next time is to use some Zymaflore ST yeast – specifically designed for making sweet wines and dies off with a 50ppm dose of SO2. The mad kiwi. Where can I get more information (technical) on this yeast ??  TIA

Response:

Outstanding !!  Thank you, thank you !!  This is the first yeast I have seen that can be stopped by SO2 levels below the 2ppm molecular threshold.  If it works as advertised, it could open up a whole *bunch* of new possibilities for me.  Thanks again !!

Another heart thank you, thank you, thank you. I would suggest that anyone that is interested in a yeast like this to contact them asking if they sell it in smaller packets (500g is a little too much for me). If they get enough interest, maybe they will package it in smaller quantities. Andy

Response:

I have completed three of the Brew King Ice Wine kits so far.  The folks drinking my meager offerings are not educated wine drinkers, mostly folks that like wine that taste good.  They generally don’t like dry wines at all. I made an error with the first kit and added two liters more water to the primary than the instructions recommended… So I added cane sugar to bring the SG back up to the manufacturer’s recommended level. Everyone raved about that wine and it was quickly consumed.  I made the next two kits strictly according to the instructions and it has not been as well received as the first batch. I will try your two-yeast method and see how they like that. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Paul, I’ve tried the Brew King kit (several times now) and one other (a Vidal). The Brew King was much better, in part I believe because it achieves the residual sugar by starting with a high Brix must and stopping fermentation before completion whereas the Vidal kit used a normal SG must and added a sweet reserve. Nowhere near as complex even allowing for the fact that the Brew King kit is a Riesling. Some suggestions from what I do: Firstly I throw away the yeast that comes with the kit and replace it with Lalvin D-47 and Lalvin EC-1118. I make sure my must is at an SG of 1165 (add sugar – the kit usually comes at 1150 or so). My goal here is to achieve a higher alcohol than you would normally get with the same residual sugar, that’s also the reason for using the EC-1118, it will ferment to 17% happily while the D-47 tends to die off around 13%. Why? Well, after doing a basic kit with D-47 following the instructions apart from that, including halting at 1050 as noted, it was good but tended to be cloyingly sweet. So I tried the above method with a goal of getting to 15% alcohol to see if the higher level would better balance the sugars (once you add the F-Pack and with topping up you end up with 14.5%). My thinking was that the D-47 and EC-1118 would compete initially but balance out, but once the D-47 died off, the EC-1118 would take over to complete. The result was spectacular, by far the best wine I’ve ever made, and as good as many true Ice Wines I’ve tried. I’m in the midst of another Brew King kit at the moment using D-47 but I’ll be taking a slight risk by killing off the D-47 with a dose of sulphite at an SG of 1070, then restarting using EC-1118. This will hopefully bring out more of the esters D-47 produces before going for the higher alcohol. Alastair You can’t make Ice wine from a kit, all you can do is make a sweet wine that is "styled" to simulate Ice wine. Ice Wine is a registered trade mark of the Vintners Quaity Alliance and can only be made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze. However saying that the most important aspect of the kit is to make sure you monitor your S.G. on a regular basis and arrest fermentation as per your instructions, usually around the 1.050 range. Allowing it to go lower will result in a wine that is out of balance. Enjoy DG. Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

Following the comments, I thought about my strategy of using SO2 and decided that I would be best to use chilling. I put the carboy into a fridge yesterday (SG was at 1075) and I’ve sterile filtered a small amount to make the starter with (next time I’ll reserve some of the must up front for the starter!) One thing I might also try next time is to use some Zymaflore ST yeast – specifically designed for making sweet wines and dies off with a 50ppm dose of SO2. The mad kiwi. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Absolutely!  Kudos to our Mad Kiwi friend! I’m no expert, but from what I’ve read I would expect the EC-1118 to dominate the D-47 even if added later.  I would save a bit of the original must to make a healthy EC-1118 starter before pitching it. The other way of killing off the D-47 that comes to mind is to chill it.  Seems appropriate for this type of wine Richard Now that’s what I call tips. thanks Paul

Response:

Absolutely!  Kudos to our Mad Kiwi friend! I’m no expert, but from what I’ve read I would expect the EC-1118 to dominate the D-47 even if added later.  I would save a bit of the original must to make a healthy EC-1118 starter before pitching it. The other way of killing off the D-47 that comes to mind is to chill it.  Seems appropriate for this type of wine Richard – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Now that’s what I call tips. thanks Paul

Response:

Dave Fill us in, are they using vacuum to extract water?  I assume they have to keep the cost down on the kit so I’m sure a true ice wine is superior, but I would really like to learn more about them and it sound like you have a lot of experience. Thanks, Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Don: Question to you and to the group also. What do you honestly think the composition of an Icewine kit is? what is it made from? what are you purchasing? d

Response:

A.J.,      Maybe someone can correct me if my notes are wrong, but I just made a Brew King Ice Wine Kit (Riesling) and the beginning gravity after the addition of water was 1.163 s.g. There definitely was no need to add sugar to the kit that I made which finished at 1.050 s.g. for a rough alcohol content of 16.5%, and a brix of 12.5 before the addition of the f pack. I wont comment on the 2 yeast method as I have not technical background in that method, but my feeling is that you are right in that the 1118 will outlive the D47, but I dont know what the yeast do prior to that, and if you actually would reap any benefits from your method which I find intriguing. On the  comment you made about adding sulfite in the middle of your fermentation to "kill off the D-47", I would strongly advise against doing that. The addition of a dose of sulphite sufficient to accomplish this could be very detrimental to your wine, and likely will prevent the EC1118 from getting going. There are specific negative consequences that may result that I cant jog my brain to think of at the moment and would ask the technical people in the group to end my sentence for me. HTH John Dixon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have completed three of the Brew King Ice Wine kits so far.  The folks drinking my meager offerings are not educated wine drinkers, mostly folks that like wine that taste good.  They generally don’t like dry wines at all. I made an error with the first kit and added two liters more water to the primary than the instructions recommended… So I added cane sugar to bring the SG back up to the manufacturer’s recommended level. Everyone raved about that wine and it was quickly consumed.  I made the next two kits strictly according to the instructions and it has not been as well received as the first batch. I will try your two-yeast method and see how they like that. Paul, I’ve tried the Brew King kit (several times now) and one other (a Vidal). The Brew King was much better, in part I believe because it achieves the residual sugar by starting with a high Brix must and stopping fermentation before completion whereas the Vidal kit used a normal SG must and added a sweet reserve. Nowhere near as complex even allowing for the fact that the Brew King kit is a Riesling. Some suggestions from what I do: Firstly I throw away the yeast that comes with the kit and replace it with Lalvin D-47 and Lalvin EC-1118. I make sure my must is at an SG of 1165 (add sugar – the kit usually comes at 1150 or so). My goal here is to achieve a higher alcohol than you would normally get with the same residual sugar, that’s also the reason for using the EC-1118, it will ferment to 17% happily while the D-47 tends to die off around 13%. Why? Well, after doing a basic kit with D-47 following the instructions apart from that, including halting at 1050 as noted, it was good but tended to be cloyingly sweet. So I tried the above method with a goal of getting to 15% alcohol to see if the higher level would better balance the sugars (once you add the F-Pack and with topping up you end up with 14.5%). My thinking was that the D-47 and EC-1118 would compete initially but balance out, but once the D-47 died off, the EC-1118 would take over to complete. The result was spectacular, by far the best wine I’ve ever made, and as good as many true Ice Wines I’ve tried. I’m in the midst of another Brew King kit at the moment using D-47 but I’ll be taking a slight risk by killing off the D-47 with a dose of sulphite at an SG of 1070, then restarting using EC-1118. This will hopefully bring out more of the esters D-47 produces before going for the higher alcohol. Alastair You can’t make Ice wine from a kit, all you can do is make a sweet wine that is "styled" to simulate Ice wine. Ice Wine is a registered trade mark of the Vintners Quaity Alliance and can only be made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze. However saying that the most important aspect of the kit is to make sure you monitor your S.G. on a regular basis and arrest fermentation as per your instructions, usually around the 1.050 range. Allowing it to go lower will result in a wine that is out of balance. Enjoy DG. Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

While its not up to me to tell you what is best I do know how wine kits and what goes into them. All I can say is you be the judge, your mouth will tell you.

Dave, If you can, give us your fair judgement and/or review on both kits and the real thing. If you cannot, just tell us. I’d certainly be interested in your opinion. Don

Response:

Paul, I’ve tried the Brew King kit (several times now) and one other (a Vidal). The Brew King was much better, in part I believe because it achieves the residual sugar by starting with a high Brix must and stopping fermentation before completion whereas the Vidal kit used a normal SG must and added a sweet reserve. Nowhere near as complex even allowing for the fact that the Brew King kit is a Riesling. Some suggestions from what I do: Firstly I throw away the yeast that comes with the kit and replace it with Lalvin D-47 and Lalvin EC-1118. I make sure my must is at an SG of 1165 (add sugar – the kit usually comes at 1150 or so). My goal here is to achieve a higher alcohol than you would normally get with the same residual sugar, that’s also the reason for using the EC-1118, it will ferment to 17% happily while the D-47 tends to die off around 13%. Why? Well, after doing a basic kit with D-47 following the instructions apart from that, including halting at 1050 as noted, it was good but tended to be cloyingly sweet. So I tried the above method with a goal of getting to 15% alcohol to see if the higher level would better balance the sugars (once you add the F-Pack and with topping up you end up with 14.5%). My thinking was that the D-47 and EC-1118 would compete initially but balance out, but once the D-47 died off, the EC-1118 would take over to complete. The result was spectacular, by far the best wine I’ve ever made, and as good as many true Ice Wines I’ve tried. I’m in the midst of another Brew King kit at the moment using D-47 but I’ll be taking a slight risk by killing off the D-47 with a dose of sulphite at an SG of 1070, then restarting using EC-1118. This will hopefully bring out more of the esters D-47 produces before going for the higher alcohol. Alastair

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You can’t make Ice wine from a kit, all you can do is make a sweet wine that is "styled" to simulate Ice wine. Ice Wine is a registered trade mark of the Vintners Quaity Alliance and can only be made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze. However saying that the most important aspect of the kit is to make sure you monitor your S.G. on a regular basis and arrest fermentation as per your instructions, usually around the 1.050 range. Allowing it to go lower will result in a wine that is out of balance. Enjoy DG. Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m in the midst of another Brew King kit at the moment using D-47 but I’ll be taking a slight risk by killing off the D-47 with a dose of sulphite at an SG of 1070, then restarting using EC-1118. This will hopefully bring out more of the esters D-47 produces before going for the higher alcohol. How about the possible results listed below (from Ed Goist, I presume) Guy Adding free SO2 to an ongoing fermentation will cause the formation of excessive amounts of acetaldehyde.

It’s also hard to kill a commercial yeast with SO2. I’ve added over 100 ppm and it had no noticable effect on the fermentation. I also communicated with a person at one of the yeast companies and he felt this is not a good way of killing the yeast. The SO2 levels would have to be well above the taste threshold. Personally, I would pitch the D-47 and wait until they die off from the alcohol, then measure the SG and add the EC-1118 if you need to lower it. Andy

Response:

I’m in the midst of another Brew King kit at the moment using D-47

but I’ll be taking a slight risk by killing off the D-47 with a dose of sulphite at an SG of 1070, then restarting using EC-1118. This will hopefully bring out more of the esters D-47 produces before going for the higher alcohol. How about the possible results listed below (from Ed Goist, I presume) Guy Adding free SO2 to an ongoing fermentation will cause the formation of excessive amounts of acetaldehyde. SO2 added to an active fermentation can block one of the final stages of the Embden-Meyerhof pathway.  Specifically, the presence of SO2 will inhibit the conversion of much of the acetaldehyde formed at an earlier stage into ethanol. Moreover, when SO2 reacts to arrest the pathway at this stage, it becomes immediately bound, hence offering little antiseptic protection to the wine anyways.

Response:

Now that’s what I call tips. thanks Paul

Response:

Don: Question to you and to the group also. What do you honestly think the composition of an Icewine kit is? what is it made from? what are you purchasing? d

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – While its not up to me to tell you what is best I do know how wine kits and what goes into them. All I can say is you be the judge, your mouth will tell you. Dave, If you can, give us your fair judgement and/or review on both kits and the real thing. If you cannot, just tell us. I’d certainly be interested in your opinion. Don

Response:

Make the kit, purchase a small 50 ml bottle of Icewine (5.00) or a 200 ml bottle of Icewine (20.00) and you be the judge. both are sweet, both are viscous, both are white. I helped design and market the first Ice Wine Style Kit sold in North America. Currently I work for a commercial Winery that grows, produces, and sells 5 different IceWines made 100% from grapes that have been frozen on the vines under VQA laws. While its not up to me to tell you what is best I do know how wine kits and what goes into them. All I can say is you be the judge, your mouth will tell you. Dave.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave, Will the ice wine kit taste similar in your opinion?  Or is it a poor and not accurate representation? Jason You can’t make Ice wine from a kit, all you can do is make a sweet wine that is "styled" to simulate Ice wine. Ice Wine is a registered trade mark of the Vintners Quaity Alliance and can only be made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze. However saying that the most important aspect of the kit is to make sure you monitor your S.G. on a regular basis and arrest fermentation as per your instructions, usually around the 1.050 range. Allowing it to go lower will result in a wine that is out of balance. Enjoy DG. Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

I never make ice wine or wine from a kit so I can’t answer personally, but I have a friend in Canada who does and he loves it. Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Dave, Will the ice wine kit taste similar in your opinion?  Or is it a poor and not accurate representation? Jason You can’t make Ice wine from a kit, all you can do is make a sweet wine  that is "styled" to simulate Ice wine. Ice Wine is a registered trade mark of the Vintners Quaity Alliance and  can only be made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze. However saying that the most important aspect of the kit is to make sure  you monitor your S.G. on a regular basis and arrest fermentation as per your instructions, usually around the 1.050 range. Allowing it to go lower will result in a wine that is out of balance. Enjoy DG. Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

Dave, Will the ice wine kit taste similar in your opinion?  Or is it a poor and not accurate representation? Jason

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – You can’t make Ice wine from a kit, all you can do is make a sweet wine that is "styled" to simulate Ice wine. Ice Wine is a registered trade mark of the Vintners Quaity Alliance and can only be made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze. However saying that the most important aspect of the kit is to make sure you monitor your S.G. on a regular basis and arrest fermentation as per your instructions, usually around the 1.050 range. Allowing it to go lower will result in a wine that is out of balance. Enjoy DG. Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

You can’t make Ice wine from a kit, all you can do is make a sweet wine that is "styled" to simulate Ice wine. Ice Wine is a registered trade mark of the Vintners Quaity Alliance and can only be made from grapes that have been left on the vine to freeze. However saying that the most important aspect of the kit is to make sure you monitor your S.G. on a regular basis and arrest fermentation as per your instructions, usually around the 1.050 range. Allowing it to go lower will result in a wine that is out of balance. Enjoy DG. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi I have jumped right in and bought an ice wine kit. ANy tips from regular users of this type if kit. Regards PAul

Response:

Question:

I’m contemplating buying either a Mo

Question:

Kathi, I’ve never made a port kit, but you can read the directions for the Brew King port kit on their website www.brewking.com.  Click on the Answer Box and then the Brew King Kit Instruction listed by Brand.  The port kit is under Selection Speciale.  From the starting and ending specific gravities they give, I think the alcohol content is less than 20%.

I’ve made a Selection Port kit.  Easy to do: it’s just like any other wine kit. Caveat:  I had a great deal of trouble with the fermentation.  May have just been me, that day, the moon, the stars, whatever, but I *really* had to work at getting that sucker to ferment down. Nice result, though.  Slight tell-tale re: the troubles I had, but most don’t notice. I seldom have trouble with the ferments with their high alcohol kits, so I put it down to "one of those things".  C’est la vie. But I would have no hesitation to do another Brew King Selection Port kit. Dr Corinne B Leek Nova Scotia — *** Conserve Energy: Laughter is easier than Anger!

Response:

Sounds like a great success.  Recipe seems sound when compared to what I know about ports.  I may try that. Ray

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Ray (and all port fans), To my amazement, the first port I made was not from a port kit, but turned out so well that all my friends rave about it.  Because of the rave response, I’ve diverted some of my otherwise red wine to this purpose. Anyway, FWIW (for what it’s worth), here’s my recipe: 1 Vino del Vida Bordeaux red wine concentrate kit I added water to 1.090 s.g., added Stavin oak beans, then EC-1118 yeast (no hydration – just poured it out over the top of the juice).  I transferred to a secondary fermentor when the s.g. was 1.000.  Three months later I added 1/4 tsp. of potassium metabisulfite (50 ppm) and measured the s.g. at 0.990. One month later, I added 8 lb. of sugar (dissolved in water to make syrup) and 1.75 liters of grain alcohol (95% abv) to bring the s.g. up to 1.040. I racked it 4 months later, with no additions, then bottled it 4 months after that (a total of one year since initial fermentation).  At bottling I determined that the finished alcohol was 18%.  After about 3 months I opened the first bottle, and it was very good!    I bottled with 375 ml bottles. I fermented in April 2001, and the port is excellent now, and I still have over 30 bottles left!  (I have learned patience in the past 10+ years of winemaking!) Anyway, I hear that Zinfandel makes an excellent port, so that is my next project. Regards, Gary http://home.carolina.rr.com/winemaking/ I made the Brew King Port Kit and was disappointed with it.  Maybe I got a bad kit.  It did not smell good when I opened it and it smelled just as bad when it was finished.  I don’t throw wines away easily so I have put it back for about 6 mo. now.  I guess I should check it again.  I have made some good kit wines so don’t think I am down on kit wines. I did make a wine that turned out an excellent port after about 10 years. I don’t know if anyone is interested in that kind of an investment.  I keep threatening to make it again as only one bottle survived long enough to be any good. Ray Kathi, I’ve never made a port kit, but you can read the directions for the Brew King port kit on their website www.brewking.com.  Click on the Answer Box and then the Brew King Kit Instruction listed by Brand.  The port kit is under Selection Speciale.  From the starting and ending specific gravities they give, I think the alcohol content is less than 20%. I’ve made a Selection Port kit.  Easy to do: it’s just like any other wine kit. Caveat:  I had a great deal of trouble with the fermentation.  May have just been me, that day, the moon, the stars, whatever, but I *really* had to work at getting that sucker to ferment down. Nice result, though.  Slight tell-tale re: the troubles I had, but most don’t notice. I seldom have trouble with the ferments with their high alcohol kits, so I put it down to "one of those things".  C’est la vie. But I would have no hesitation to do another Brew King Selection Port kit. Dr Corinne B Leek Nova Scotia — *** Conserve Energy: Laughter is easier than Anger!

Response:

Ray (and all port fans), To my amazement, the first port I made was not from a port kit, but turned out so well that all my friends rave about it.  Because of the rave response, I’ve diverted some of my otherwise red wine to this purpose. Anyway, FWIW (for what it’s worth), here’s my recipe: 1 Vino del Vida Bordeaux red wine concentrate kit I added water to 1.090 s.g., added Stavin oak beans, then EC-1118 yeast (no hydration – just poured it out over the top of the juice).  I transferred to a secondary fermentor when the s.g. was 1.000.  Three months later I added 1/4 tsp. of potassium metabisulfite (50 ppm) and measured the s.g. at 0.990. One month later, I added 8 lb. of sugar (dissolved in water to make syrup) and 1.75 liters of grain alcohol (95% abv) to bring the s.g. up to 1.040.  I racked it 4 months later, with no additions, then bottled it 4 months after that (a total of one year since initial fermentation).  At bottling I determined that the finished alcohol was 18%.  After about 3 months I opened the first bottle, and it was very good!    I bottled with 375 ml bottles.  I fermented in April 2001, and the port is excellent now, and I still have over 30 bottles left!  (I have learned patience in the past 10+ years of winemaking!) Anyway, I hear that Zinfandel makes an excellent port, so that is my next project. Regards, Gary http://home.carolina.rr.com/winemaking/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I made the Brew King Port Kit and was disappointed with it.  Maybe I got a bad kit.  It did not smell good when I opened it and it smelled just as bad when it was finished.  I don’t throw wines away easily so I have put it back for about 6 mo. now.  I guess I should check it again.  I have made some good kit wines so don’t think I am down on kit wines. I did make a wine that turned out an excellent port after about 10 years. I don’t know if anyone is interested in that kind of an investment.  I keep threatening to make it again as only one bottle survived long enough to be any good. Ray Kathi, I’ve never made a port kit, but you can read the directions for the Brew King port kit on their website www.brewking.com.  Click on the Answer Box and then the Brew King Kit Instruction listed by Brand.  The port kit is under Selection Speciale.  From the starting and ending specific gravities they give, I think the alcohol content is less than 20%. I’ve made a Selection Port kit.  Easy to do: it’s just like any other wine kit. Caveat:  I had a great deal of trouble with the fermentation.  May have just been me, that day, the moon, the stars, whatever, but I *really* had to work at getting that sucker to ferment down. Nice result, though.  Slight tell-tale re: the troubles I had, but most don’t notice. I seldom have trouble with the ferments with their high alcohol kits, so I put it down to "one of those things".  C’est la vie. But I would have no hesitation to do another Brew King Selection Port kit. Dr Corinne B Leek Nova Scotia — *** Conserve Energy: Laughter is easier than Anger!

Response:

Actually there is a nice article on making Port in the Dec. issue of WineMaking Mag.  Would be a good idea for anyone interested in port to read it.  I describes the different types of Ports, how they are made, and how you can make port at home.  Might be a good idea to pick it up while it is still on the mag. rack at your local shop. Ray

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This year I came home from the Ottawa wine and food show with a bottle of Graham’s late bottled vintage Port (and a couple other bottles of other wines).  I just finished the last glass, and have decided I want to try making some.  I don’t think I’m quite ready to make it from scratch, so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a kit? And why is it that Port has to be so high in alcohol?  Graham’s is 20%.  I love the flavours so much, I’d like to have more than 1, or 2 glasses but I get pickled too fast!  Would a kit be about the same? Kathi

Response:

Most ports are about 18-20% alcohol, but you wouldn’t have to go this high. Just calculate your spirit addition to whatever alcohol % you wish to achieve. I’m not sure what the level of alcohol has to be to insure that fermentation stops completely, so you may have to add sorbate if you let the alcohol drop below 18%. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This year I came home from the Ottawa wine and food show with a bottle of Graham’s late bottled vintage Port (and a couple other bottles of other wines).  I just finished the last glass, and have decided I want to try making some.  I don’t think I’m quite ready to make it from scratch, so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a kit? And why is it that Port has to be so high in alcohol?  Graham’s is 20%.  I love the flavours so much, I’d like to have more than 1, or 2 glasses but I get pickled too fast!  Would a kit be about the same? Kathi

Response:

I too am thinking about making a port. What about getting a kit and adding less water or something, say to a gravity in the 1.100+ range? Maybe slowly feeding it juice to get it to ferment out? Then it could eventually be stabilized and sweetened if desired with more juice or sugar. Add a bottle of brandy as well? Could this work? John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I made the Brew King Port Kit and was disappointed with it.  Maybe I got a bad kit.  It did not smell good when I opened it and it smelled just as bad when it was finished.  I don’t throw wines away easily so I have put it back for about 6 mo. now.  I guess I should check it again.  I have made some good kit wines so don’t think I am down on kit wines. I did make a wine that turned out an excellent port after about 10 years. I don’t know if anyone is interested in that kind of an investment.  I keep threatening to make it again as only one bottle survived long enough to be any good. Ray Kathi, I’ve never made a port kit, but you can read the directions for the Brew King port kit on their website www.brewking.com.  Click on the Answer Box and then the Brew King Kit Instruction listed by Brand.  The port kit is under Selection Speciale.  From the starting and ending specific gravities they give, I think the alcohol content is less than 20%. I’ve made a Selection Port kit.  Easy to do: it’s just like any other wine kit. Caveat:  I had a great deal of trouble with the fermentation.  May have just been me, that day, the moon, the stars, whatever, but I *really* had to work at getting that sucker to ferment down. Nice result, though.  Slight tell-tale re: the troubles I had, but most don’t notice. I seldom have trouble with the ferments with their high alcohol kits, so I put it down to "one of those things".  C’est la vie. But I would have no hesitation to do another Brew King Selection Port kit. Dr Corinne B Leek Nova Scotia — *** Conserve Energy: Laughter is easier than Anger!

Response:

I made the Brew King Port Kit and was disappointed with it.  Maybe I got a bad kit.  It did not smell good when I opened it and it smelled just as bad when it was finished.  I don’t throw wines away easily so I have put it back for about 6 mo. now.  I guess I should check it again.  I have made some good kit wines so don’t think I am down on kit wines. I did make a wine that turned out an excellent port after about 10 years.  I don’t know if anyone is interested in that kind of an investment.  I keep threatening to make it again as only one bottle survived long enough to be any good. Ray – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Kathi, I’ve never made a port kit, but you can read the directions for the Brew King port kit on their website www.brewking.com.  Click on the Answer Box and then the Brew King Kit Instruction listed by Brand.  The port kit is under Selection Speciale.  From the starting and ending specific gravities they give, I think the alcohol content is less than 20%. I’ve made a Selection Port kit.  Easy to do: it’s just like any other wine kit. Caveat:  I had a great deal of trouble with the fermentation.  May have just been me, that day, the moon, the stars, whatever, but I *really* had to work at getting that sucker to ferment down. Nice result, though.  Slight tell-tale re: the troubles I had, but most don’t notice. I seldom have trouble with the ferments with their high alcohol kits, so I put it down to "one of those things".  C’est la vie. But I would have no hesitation to do another Brew King Selection Port kit. Dr Corinne B Leek Nova Scotia — *** Conserve Energy: Laughter is easier than Anger!

Response:

I am making one of these kits now. I too have Warre’s 1992 LBV in my wine cellar area, but at $19.99 for 750ml it would be nice to find a reasonable price kit that will produce good home results from private consumption.  I did have a very good fermentation and maybe went a little drier then the kits directions recommended.  It is in 56F storage for now until the Thanksgiving chaos is complete.  I will continue to bring out the LBV for company, but hopefully the kit will compare favorably. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Kathi, I’ve never made a port kit, but you can read the directions for the Brew King port kit on their website www.brewking.com.  Click on the Answer Box and then the Brew King Kit Instruction listed by Brand.  The port kit is under Selection Speciale.  From the starting and ending specific gravities they give, I think the alcohol content is less than 20%. I’ve made a Selection Port kit.  Easy to do: it’s just like any other wine kit. Caveat:  I had a great deal of trouble with the fermentation.  May have just been me, that day, the moon, the stars, whatever, but I *really* had to work at getting that sucker to ferment down. Nice result, though.  Slight tell-tale re: the troubles I had, but most don’t notice. I seldom have trouble with the ferments with their high alcohol kits, so I put it down to "one of those things".  C’est la vie. But I would have no hesitation to do another Brew King Selection Port kit. Dr Corinne B Leek Nova Scotia

Response:

This year I came home from the Ottawa wine and food show with a bottle of Graham’s late bottled vintage Port (and a couple other bottles of other wines).  I just finished the last glass, and have decided I want to try making some.  I don’t think I’m quite ready to make it from scratch, so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a kit? And why is it that Port has to be so high in alcohol?  Graham’s is 20%.  I love the flavours so much, I’d like to have more than 1, or 2 glasses but I get pickled too fast!  Would a kit be about the same? Kathi

Response:

Kathi,     I cant recommend a kit, but most Ports are "fortified" meaning they all distilled spirits. HTH, John Dixon

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This year I came home from the Ottawa wine and food show with a bottle of Graham’s late bottled vintage Port (and a couple other bottles of other wines).  I just finished the last glass, and have decided I want to try making some.  I don’t think I’m quite ready to make it from scratch, so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a kit? And why is it that Port has to be so high in alcohol?  Graham’s is 20%.  I love the flavours so much, I’d like to have more than 1, or 2 glasses but I get pickled too fast!  Would a kit be about the same? Kathi

Response:

Kathi, I’ve never made a port kit, but you can read the directions for the Brew King port kit on their website www.brewking.com.  Click on the Answer Box and then the Brew King Kit Instruction listed by Brand.  The port kit is under Selection Speciale.  From the starting and ending specific gravities they give, I think the alcohol content is less than 20%. Gerry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This year I came home from the Ottawa wine and food show with a bottle of Graham’s late bottled vintage Port (and a couple other bottles of other wines).  I just finished the last glass, and have decided I want to try making some.  I don’t think I’m quite ready to make it from scratch, so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on a kit? And why is it that Port has to be so high in alcohol?  Graham’s is 20%.  I love the flavours so much, I’d like to have more than 1, or 2 glasses but I get pickled too fast!  Would a kit be about the same? Kathi

Response:

Question:

Did anyone ever get a red precipitate in the lees?  I assume this is a wild yeast that has taken over the wine and naturally has a redish colour. The kit was a liquor – sugar, nutrient and yeast until the end so no natural colours. Any thoughts?? TIA Paul

Response:

I got some reddish lees from my watermelon-rhubarb wine.  Since the wine seems to be doing okay, I am not worrying about it.  Others might feel differently.  Then again, I’ve never done a wine kit – I make mostly fruit wines.  Good-luck. Darlene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Did anyone ever get a red precipitate in the lees?  I assume this is a wild yeast that has taken over the wine and naturally has a redish colour. The kit was a liquor – sugar, nutrient and yeast until the end so no natural colours. Any thoughts?? TIA Paul

Response:

Question:

That’s been my experience at the brewshop, liquid is cheaper.  I’ve been brewing mixes of liquid and dry lately too. The DME seems gives a slightly lighter brew, at least with the particular pale ale extracts I’ve been using.  That seems to be one reason for mixing them in the brewshops kits pay a little more to lighten it up.  I guess it could also be that the lighter the brew the more important consistency of quality in the extract, but my observation is that the DME gives a lighter brew.  I could be totally wrong here but it’s what I’ve observed with the local ingredients and recipes.  Personally, I think the liquid is a little "grainier" smelling and tasting too, I actually like the liquid results a little better, but that’s my taste and again the local shop’s particular ingredients. Ebb

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – DME is lighter, but I’ve never used it to brew… so I dont know the quality vs. liquid malt extract. Quality is better IMO.  How old is the LME is always a question, and the age can affect the beer.  DME is dried.  In a closed container, it should last a very long time without changing characteristics. Why’s LME so much more popular then? I’ve seen plenty of variety of DME, so it cant be that. Cost is a factor. Forgetting about bulk quantities and shipping for a moment LME is about $2 a pound and DME is about $3 a pound. Factoring in 20% water in LME, it’s still cheaper. Medford, NY swap net.optonline to reply via e-mail

Response:

My system I made from a $14 40qt cooler at Walmart, and $5 in CPVC tubing parts fitted together in some funky pattern, and drilled full of holes as manifold. I did a 45% wheat 55% barley mash a few weeks ago, and although I’ve heard the horrors of wheat mashing and stuck sparges, had no problem whatsoever. Some pics of it, and other brewing junk I’ve made are at http://www.ebonmists.com/brewing

I noticed from your pics that when you have your manifold installed in your mash tun, the holes are on the top.  I’m assuming that you have holes drilled only on one side and are fly sparging?  In this arrangement, you are probably not leaching sugars out of any grain that sits below the level of the holes, IE the 1" of grain on the bottom which is around the manifold.  It may not make a huge difference, but you might be able to improve your efficiency some by flipping the manifold over so that the holes are on the bottom. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

Why’s LME so much more popular then? I’ve seen plenty of variety of DME, so it cant be that. That’s a very good question.  I don’t know, but maybe it has something to do with LME being easier to make than DME, so there is more of a supply?  That’s just a guess.

At a wholesale level, at least, DME is 60% more expensive than LME on a dollars per gravity point basis.  That is a big difference. — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. " – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – DME is lighter, but I’ve never used it to brew… so I dont know the quality vs. liquid malt extract. Quality is better IMO.  How old is the LME is always a question, and the age can affect the beer.  DME is dried.  In a closed container, it should last a very long time without changing characteristics. Why’s LME so much more popular then? I’ve seen plenty of variety of DME, so it cant be that.

That’s a very good question.  I don’t know, but maybe it has something to do with LME being easier to make than DME, so there is more of a supply?  That’s just a guess. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

Thanks for the tips.  I’ll have to get more serious about building an AG setup.  Mainly I have been seeing cost in the equipment to heat and cool. An immersion chiller seems easiest, but you’ve got to buy copper tubing, not too excessively expensive I guess, especially when considering what I already have invested in my equipment.  A propane burner seems almost necessary, my natural gas stove is a little slow.  I have a nice 5 gallon brew pot, but I assume I’ll need at least a 7 gallon, so there’s some money there too – I have seen the converted kegs for this purpose that could save some there. The insulated containers for mashing and buckets and plumbing for lautering etc should be pretty cheap.   In all, I don’t see it costing more than what I’ve already spent, but still it adds up to a few bucks. I’ll definitely get there and I appreciate any input on construction.  I’ve got welding equipment and skills so that should help.  The other thing holding me off  is I want to get a kegerator going, I mean maintaining 10 cases of bottles aging different stuff and turning over a few cases per month is really getting to be a  chore.  So AG may have to be put on the back burner, no pun intended. Thanks, ebb

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been brewing about 2 or 3 5-gallon batches per month now for awhile. I haven’t yet gathered enough $$ to start assembling good all-grain equipment and I’m happy with my results with extracts.  I am tired of buying ingredients for 2 or 3 batches at a time.  Most of the stuff I brew takes pale ale malt syrup and various steeping grains.  I’d like to just buy a bucket of syrup, a variety of grains, hops and yeast.  I’d also like to start reusing yeast, recovering it and keeping it in the refrigerator. Here’s the question part.  Where’s a good place to order, say a 5 gallon bucket or so of liquid pale malt extract.  What brand/type would be recommended as general staple for a variety of brews? Thanks, ebb

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – DME is lighter, but I’ve never used it to brew… so I dont know the quality vs. liquid malt extract. Quality is better IMO.  How old is the LME is always a question, and the age can affect the beer.  DME is dried.  In a closed container, it should last a very long time without changing characteristics. Why’s LME so much more popular then? I’ve seen plenty of variety of DME, so it cant be that.

I’m not convinced it is more popular.  Most of the avid extract brewers I know use DME and grains.  New brewers tend to purchase kits that are LME based.  I would think it wouldn’t take as much labor to make LME as DME. I started with LME, but ended up my extract carrer using blends of both to try and tweak beers… Cheers, Mike

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – DME is lighter, but I’ve never used it to brew… so I dont know the quality vs. liquid malt extract. Quality is better IMO.  How old is the LME is always a question, and the age can affect the beer.  DME is dried.  In a closed container, it should last a very long time without changing characteristics. Why’s LME so much more popular then? I’ve seen plenty of variety of DME, so it cant be that.

Cost is a factor. Forgetting about bulk quantities and shipping for a moment LME is about $2 a pound and DME is about $3 a pound. Factoring in 20% water in LME, it’s still cheaper. Medford, NY swap net.optonline to reply via e-mail

Response:

On the all-grain equipment thing, I’ve recently discovered the following item on Dan Listermann’s site. http://www.listermann.com/Store/Details.asp?ID=338 It says "All-grain brewing made easy with inexpensive, efficient, complete system. Includes hot liquor bucket, sparging arm, sparge bucket, false bottom and all hoses." for $44.95. I’m seriously considering going for this myself.  So far, I’ve only been making extract (with specialty grain) batches, and I’m looking forward to moving on to the "next step."

I believe that setup just uses a regular ‘beer bucket’ to mash in. Get some of that blue insulating foam from home depot or lowes or whatnot to insulate it, else you’ll lose a lot of heat. My system I made from a $14 40qt cooler at Walmart, and $5 in CPVC tubing parts fitted together in some funky pattern, and drilled full of holes as manifold. I did a 45% wheat 55% barley mash a few weeks ago, and although I’ve heard the horrors of wheat mashing and stuck sparges, had no problem whatsoever. Some pics of it, and other brewing junk I’ve made are at http://www.ebonmists.com/brewing

Response:

DME is lighter, but I’ve never used it to brew… so I dont know the quality vs. liquid malt extract. Quality is better IMO.  How old is the LME is always a question, and the age can affect the beer.  DME is dried.  In a closed container, it should last a very long time without changing characteristics.

Why’s LME so much more popular then? I’ve seen plenty of variety of DME, so it cant be that.

Response:

On the all-grain equipment thing, I’ve recently discovered the following item on Dan Listermann’s site. http://www.listermann.com/Store/Details.asp?ID=338 It says "All-grain brewing made easy with inexpensive, efficient, complete system. Includes hot liquor bucket, sparging arm, sparge bucket, false bottom and all hoses." for $44.95. I’m seriously considering going for this myself.  So far, I’ve only been making extract (with specialty grain) batches, and I’m looking forward to moving on to the "next step."

Not that Dan shouldn’t make any money, but an AG setup can be made for practically nothing, see my page…. Cheers, Mike www.ipass.net/~mpdixon/homebrew.htm

Response:

On the all-grain equipment thing, I’ve recently discovered the following item on Dan Listermann’s site. http://www.listermann.com/Store/Details.asp?ID=338 It says "All-grain brewing made easy with inexpensive, efficient, complete system. Includes hot liquor bucket, sparging arm, sparge bucket, false bottom and all hoses." for $44.95. I’m seriously considering going for this myself.  So far, I’ve only been making extract (with specialty grain) batches, and I’m looking forward to moving on to the "next step." — Lafe Homepage:    http://www.lafes.net/ Forums:      http://forums.lafes.net/ Beer Forum:  http://forums.lafes.net/index.php?act=SF&f=3

Response:

DME is lighter, but I’ve never used it to brew… so I dont know the quality vs. liquid malt extract.

Quality is better IMO.  How old is the LME is always a question, and the age can affect the beer.  DME is dried.  In a closed container, it should last a very long time without changing characteristics. Cheers, Mike

Response:

I’ve been brewing about 2 or 3 5-gallon batches per month now for awhile.  I haven’t yet gathered enough $$ to start assembling good all-grain equipment and I’m happy with my results with extracts.  I am tired of buying ingredients for 2 or 3 batches at a time.  Most of the stuff I brew takes pale ale malt syrup and various steeping grains.  I’d like to just buy a bucket of syrup, a variety of grains, hops and yeast.  I’d also like to start reusing yeast, recovering it and keeping it in the refrigerator. Here’s the question part.  Where’s a good place to order, say a 5 gallon bucket or so of liquid pale malt extract.  What brand/type would be recommended as general staple for a variety of brews?

Many homebrew places on the web would be happy to ship you whatever you want. Try and order from someplace closeby, that will charge you actual UPS cost, and have it sent to your work address (UPS ships to commerical addresses for cheaper than residential). I had a 45 pound wine kit sent to me at work for $8.50. I paid that much to have a 1 pound regulator shipped halfway cross country. DME is lighter, but I’ve never used it to brew… so I dont know the quality vs. liquid malt extract.

Response:

I’ve been brewing about 2 or 3 5-gallon batches per month now for awhile. I haven’t yet gathered enough $$ to start assembling good all-grain

equipment See my page for some ideas on how to start out on the cheap…. www.ipass.net/~mpdixon/homebrew.htm and I’m happy with my results with extracts.  I am tired of buying ingredients for 2 or 3 batches at a time.  Most of the stuff I brew takes pale ale malt syrup and various steeping grains.  I’d like to just buy a bucket of syrup, a variety of grains, hops and yeast.  I’d also like to start reusing yeast, recovering it and keeping it in the refrigerator. Here’s the question part.  Where’s a good place to order, say a 5 gallon bucket or so of liquid pale malt extract.  What brand/type would be recommended as general staple for a variety of brews?

I’d suggest looking into DME and save the cost of shipping.  In LME, you are shipping water weight… Cheers, Mike

Response:

Here’s the question part.  Where’s a good place to order, say a 5 gallon bucket or so of liquid pale malt extract?

Get it somewhere close! It weighs a lot and shipping is high. Many LHBS’s buy it by the 55 gallon drum and will let you bring in a 5 gallon pail and fill it. They sell it by the pound. Between uses, pour some vodka on the surface to prevent mold. Burp, -Dan — Replace nospam with msn to email me.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve been brewing about 2 or 3 5-gallon batches per month now for awhile. I haven’t yet gathered enough $$ to start assembling good all-grain equipment and I’m happy with my results with extracts.  I am tired of buying ingredients for 2 or 3 batches at a time.  Most of the stuff I brew takes pale ale malt syrup and various steeping grains.  I’d like to just buy a bucket of syrup, a variety of grains, hops and yeast.  I’d also like to start reusing yeast, recovering it and keeping it in the refrigerator. Here’s the question part.  Where’s a good place to order, say a 5 gallon bucket or so of liquid pale malt extract.  What brand/type would be recommended as general staple for a variety of brews? Thanks, ebb

Response:

I’ve been brewing about 2 or 3 5-gallon batches per month now for awhile.  I haven’t yet gathered enough $$ to start assembling good all-grain equipment and I’m happy with my results with extracts.  I am tired of buying ingredients for 2 or 3 batches at a time.  Most of the stuff I brew takes pale ale malt syrup and various steeping grains.  I’d like to just buy a bucket of syrup, a variety of grains, hops and yeast.  I’d also like to start reusing yeast, recovering it and keeping it in the refrigerator. Here’s the question part.  Where’s a good place to order, say a 5 gallon bucket or so of liquid pale malt extract.  What brand/type would be recommended as general staple for a variety of brews? Thanks, ebb

Response:

Question:

I started my first wine in Nov. of 1998.  I’ve since made wines from juice (grape), fresh and frozen fruit, and grapes.  I’ve yet to make a mead that turned out.  This year I should bottle somewhere around 1200 gallons.  (my hobby got bigger, and licensed) Bill

Response:

Jon, What kind of wine are you starting with? Darlene – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –     I’m a 38 year old baby here… I’m 20 days into this wonderful experience!     -Paul I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Response:

Going on 28 years. Ron " I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ale, beer and or sodas? Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Response:

Started making beer back  in the 60s (college days).  It wasn’t very good but after a couple you didn’t care.  Then laid off many years because of work and family.  Retired in 87 and was given a beer making kit by my staff…that started it off again so I’ve been making proper beer for 15 years.  Moved to 10 acres in 94 and planted a few grape vines.  The vineyard now has 170 vines and I think I finally have the right kind of wine grapes for Kansas…Oldest home-made wine in my cellar is 1997. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon. —     Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com    Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Response:

: I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, : beer and or sodas? My father often made wine/vinegar 30+ years ago from the elderberries he made us pick. Last year, we had a bumper crop of peaches and plums on our little acre, and rather than watch the unused fruit rot, I decided to make wine from it.  It’s been a wonderful hobby to date.  Of course, my wife fails to see the humor in it when I joke "I bet we could make a pretty good wine out of that…" This years drought sorta shut down the orchard so I’ve been experimenting at the frozen juice section of the supermarket lately.  I was never much of a wine drinker, but I like what I make.  I don’t know if I want to go to kits… They might spoil me.  B-{) — Kirk

Response:

Jon, I’m starting my second year making homemade fruit wine.  I started with Rhubarb, some fruit juice wines, cherry, dandelion, raspberry, and the latest watermelon.  I’m working on a recipe for rhubarb & strawberry fruit wine for December, after I bottle my dandelion.  It is fun and I enjoy it. Darlene

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Response:

I started with wine last summer… I looked up a recipe on Jack Keller’s site after fighting Dandelions on my property… I can beat them so I made wine.  I now have Rhubarb (another nusiance plant), Chickweed (nusiance),  Rose Hips and Huckleberry going.   A. J. Rawls Anchorage, Alaska, USA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon. —     Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com    Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Response:

Made my first "wine" in 1981. Dewey

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Response:

I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon.

Wine on and off for over 20 years: intense for the past 9 harvests. Beer during a 4 year stint ending about 10 years ago, but only as an amateur.  Have sites set to return to that craft in the near future within the professional arena. And you? clyde

Response:

I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon.

Started with Welch’s grape juice 43 years ago, now using only real grape juice or grapes…

Response:

I started in 1968 (34 years ago) just after I was married and my wife ran a winemaking store.  Didn’t make any for about 20 years then started up seriously about 8 years ago. Glen Duff

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Response:

I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas?

less than a year for wine and beer    grady

Response:

I’m just curious… How long have you been making your own wine, mead, ale, beer and or sodas? Jon.

Only 6 years, and only wine… I started in Ireland. The booze there was sooo expensive for a student. Enjoyed the homemade especially because I did it myself. Never tried a kit! Ren