Question:

WOW !!, what a fast response by several.  Thanks for the input, most seem to agree that steaming may be the problem and a floor corker will help.  I have been talking to my brew/wine shop about the Italian floor corker, it will be next purchase I make.  I have almost 100 bottles in the rack and need to do something quick, I have 10 gallons to bottle in a few weeks. I will try another method of sterilizing my corks, as they do crumble easily after steaming. Thanks again for your replies, — Joe Pape  Atlanta, GA http://www.geocities.com/aquaholic_on_lanier/MyPinballPageone.html?97… 340 "

Response:

I will try another method of sterilizing my corks, as they do

crumble easily after steaming. Why don’t you read first the info from the following address: http://www.rjgrape.com/HandoutView.asp?HandoutID=14 Also, use the word

Question:

Wine is the one thing I miss on induction. I’m going to have a "planned cheat" on the upcoming U.S. holiday "Father’s Day" and a certain bottle of wine is going to play a starring role.  ;-) – Scott — 228/213/165 – Atkins Phase I since 4/28/03

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet. Duncan After 2 weeks of induction and a couple of months of less restrictive LCing before that, I finally gave in yesterday and opened that bottle of merlot that kept taunting me every day as I walked by it. Tasted fine and did the trick. It did the trick so well I’m finishing off the bottle right now as we speak at 12 noon on sunday. Oh well, it’ll mean induction again starting tuesday, but I’m not skimping on the wine for this weekend. :) But no, I don’t think LC’ing would have a connection with the change you experienced. Maybe if you haven’t had anything sweet tasting during the month it would affect the way it tasted, making it taste sweeter to you than what you remember. But as far as the wine making me feel "off colour", by which I take it you mean some stomach upset and or slight naseua, no I didn’t experience any last night or right now. Good thing too. Cheers, Ghamal

Response:

Wine is the one thing I miss on induction. I’m going to have a "planned cheat" on the upcoming U.S. holiday "Father’s Day" and a certain bottle of wine is going to play a starring role.

Induction should be over by then, so no need to cheat. .. Bridget M. Atkins maintenance for life.

Response:

After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet. Duncan

If the wine has sulfites in it your body may be reacting to them.

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After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet. Duncan If the wine has sulfites in it your body may be reacting to them.

The wine will have less sulfites than the salad you buy. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

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Thanks for all your replies. I never thought I would see the day where i am not tempted by my favourite weekend treat (wine) — but I am not. So pineapple juice it will be. Duncan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet. Duncan

Response:

So pineapple juice it will be.

What kind of low-carb diet are you on?  Pineapple juice is like drinking sugar water!

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Thanks for all your replies. I never thought I would see the day where i am not tempted by my favourite weekend treat (wine) — but I am not. So pineapple juice it will be. Duncan

I am quite confused about this- While I can understand a sweet wine having a relatively high carb count, I can’t see where the carbs come from in red wine, especially given that almost all red wines are dry. All the sugar in a dry red wine has fermented into alcohol – there is no sugar left. White wines vary greatly, since they can be dry (like a Chardonnay) or sweet (like a Riesling) – a sweet white wine might have a VERY high carb content. The guidelines are, at best, inaccurate. But can anyone tell me where the carbs come from in red wine? It’s not sugar, and given how fermentation of red wine occurs, I don’t really see any other place for it to come from, either.

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But can anyone tell me where the carbs come from in red wine? It’s not sugar, and given how fermentation of red wine occurs, I don’t really see any other place for it to come from, either.

I believe I read somewhere that red wine’s higher carb count is due to the esters (which are carbohydrates after all) that give the wine its color, body, aroma, body etc. — Bob Kanyak’s Doghouse http://kanyak.com

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Fruit?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But can anyone tell me where the carbs come from in red wine? It’s not sugar, and given how fermentation of red wine occurs, I don’t really see any other place for it to come from, either. I believe I read somewhere that red wine’s higher carb count is due to the esters (which are carbohydrates after all) that give the wine its color, body, aroma, body etc. — Bob Kanyak’s Doghouse http://kanyak.com

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OK – let’s take these one at a time: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text —— Original Message —– Newsgroups: alt.support.diet.low-carb Fruit? First, red and white wine are both made from grapes. The difference is that red wine is fermented with the grapes in the must. The ONLY contribution of carbohydrates that the grape makes to the wine is the sugar. In a DRY wine, as almost all reds are, all of that sugar is fermented into alcohol, leaving NO sugar, and thus no carbs. I believe I read somewhere that red wine’s higher carb count is due to the esters (which are carbohydrates after all) that give the wine its color, body, aroma, body etc. That also doesn’t make sense, as the esters in wine are all alcohols. And they are present in many whites as well. The problem I’m having with this is the fact that "red" wine is given one amount, and "white" wine is given a much smaller amount, when the majority of red wines are dry, and many white wines are sweet. Sweet wines are sweet due to SUGAR – primarily fructose, but also glucose. The numbers are, IMO, VERY misleading, at the least. Since I MAKE wine, I believe I know a little about the process – I still don’t understand how the carb counts come up the way they do. How were they arrived at? Have any studies been done? If so, can anyone refer me? I’m just trying to make sense of it – it just doesn’t click…

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The attenuation of the yeast has a lot to do with how much residual sugar will be left behind after fermentation. For many commercial wines, an addition of sulfites will arrest further fermentation. They can then be topped off with fresh, unfermented juice and brought up to a higher level of sweetness (and carb level). All the estimates and "I think’s" are just guesses. If you want to get the carb count of a particular brand of wine, look on the label for the company’s name/address and contact them. The bigger companies will probably have the info you need. Every style, every blend, every vintage, every brand is different. Averages are just averages and really are useless. I put together a list of the carb counts of over 350 brands of worldwide beers with the help of a lot of cooperating breweries because I got tired of being told that the "average" carb count in a 12-ounce serving of beer is 12 grams. Regular brewed beers can be anywhere between 7 to 30 grams of carbs per serving, depending on the brand or style. Assume something’s "average" and see what happens when you get on the scale or stall for a week or two. Bob http://www.drinkbeergetthindiet.com

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – OK – let’s take these one at a time: —– Original Message —– Newsgroups: alt.support.diet.low-carb Fruit? First, red and white wine are both made from grapes. The difference is that red wine is fermented with the grapes in the must. The ONLY contribution of carbohydrates that the grape makes to the wine is the sugar. In a DRY wine, as almost all reds are, all of that sugar is fermented into alcohol, leaving NO sugar, and thus no carbs. I believe I read somewhere that red wine’s higher carb count is due to the esters (which are carbohydrates after all) that give the wine its color, body, aroma, body etc. That also doesn’t make sense, as the esters in wine are all alcohols. And they are present in many whites as well. The problem I’m having with this is the fact that "red" wine is given one amount, and "white" wine is given a much smaller amount, when the majority of red wines are dry, and many white wines are sweet. Sweet wines are sweet due to SUGAR – primarily fructose, but also glucose. The numbers are, IMO, VERY misleading, at the least. Since I MAKE wine, I believe I know a little about the process – I still don’t understand how the carb counts come up the way they do. How were they arrived at? Have any studies been done? If so, can anyone refer me? I’m just trying to make sense of it – it just doesn’t click…

Response:

The attenuation of the yeast has a lot to do with how much residual sugar will be left behind after fermentation. For many commercial wines, an addition of sulfites will arrest further fermentation. They can then be topped off with fresh, unfermented juice and brought up to a higher level of sweetness (and carb level).

Again, this isn’t addressing my primary question, which is: Why is the c(average) arb level for RED wine, which is usually dry, higher than the level for WHITE wine, which is often sweet? I’m still missing something. Yes, attenuation affects the relavtive dryness of the wine. But if that is the primary measure of carbs (which it seems to be, since there isn’t any other source), then red wine should be, on the average, MUCH lower than white wine. All the estimates and "I think’s" are just guesses. If you want to get the carb count of a particular brand of wine, look on the label for the company’s name/address and contact them. The bigger companies will probably have the info you need. Every style, every blend, every vintage, every brand is different. Averages are just averages and really are useless.

So, you’re saying that the "average" values for wine aren’t based on anything solid, just somebody’s guess? Really, the whole thing just doesn’t make sense – I wish I could clear it up. Frankly, it’s beginning to seem that the numbers ARE just arbitrary guesses, and don’t have any bearing on reality. I put together a list of the carb counts of over 350 brands of worldwide beers with the help of a lot of cooperating breweries because I got tired of being told that the "average" carb count in a 12-ounce serving of beer is 12 grams. Regular brewed beers can be anywhere between 7 to 30 grams of carbs per serving, depending on the brand or style.

That sounds like a big project – I assume it’s on your website? I’ll have to take a look! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Assume something’s "average" and see what happens when you get on the scale or stall for a week or two. Bob http://www.drinkbeergetthindiet.com OK – let’s take these one at a time: —– Original Message —– Newsgroups: alt.support.diet.low-carb Fruit? First, red and white wine are both made from grapes. The difference is that red wine is fermented with the grapes in the must. The ONLY contribution of carbohydrates that the grape makes to the wine is the sugar. In a DRY wine, as almost all reds are, all of that sugar is fermented into alcohol, leaving NO sugar, and thus no carbs. I believe I read somewhere that red wine’s higher carb count is due to the esters (which are carbohydrates after all) that give the wine its color, body, aroma, body etc. That also doesn’t make sense, as the esters in wine are all alcohols. And they are present in many whites as well. The problem I’m having with this is the fact that "red" wine is given one amount, and "white" wine is given a much smaller amount, when the majority of red wines are dry, and many white wines are sweet. Sweet wines are sweet due to SUGAR – primarily fructose, but also glucose. The numbers are, IMO, VERY misleading, at the least. Since I MAKE wine, I believe I know a little about the process – I still don’t understand how the carb counts come up the way they do. How were they arrived at? Have any studies been done? If so, can anyone refer me? I’m just trying to make sense of it – it just doesn’t click…

Response:

Lowcarbing increases your sensitivity to alcohol so you get a buzz much faster than you used to.

What a nice bonus! revek

–Bryan 198/153/155

Response:

After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet. Duncan

Response:

After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same

Your taste buds are probably becoming more sensitive.  and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet.

What do you mean by off-colour?  Lowcarbing increases your sensitivity to alcohol so you get a buzz much faster than you used to. revek

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same Your taste buds are probably becoming more sensitive.  and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet. What do you mean by off-colour?  Lowcarbing increases your sensitivity to alcohol so you get a buzz much faster than you used to. revek

Off colour — in that my digestion system feels like it had a battering. Duncan

Response:

After a month on a low carb diet I find the wine, I normally thoroughly enjoy, does not seem to taste the same and it makes me feel somewhat off colour. Could there be a connection with the diet. Duncan

After 2 weeks of induction and a couple of months of less restrictive LCing before that, I finally gave in yesterday and opened that bottle of merlot that kept taunting me every day as I walked by it. Tasted fine and did the trick. It did the trick so well I’m finishing off the bottle right now as we speak at 12 noon on sunday. Oh well, it’ll mean induction again starting tuesday, but I’m not skimping on the wine for this weekend. :) But no, I don’t think LC’ing would have a connection with the change you experienced. Maybe if you haven’t had anything sweet tasting during the month it would affect the way it tasted, making it taste sweeter to you than what you remember. But as far as the wine making me feel "off colour", by which I take it you mean some stomach upset and or slight naseua, no I didn’t experience any last night or right now. Good thing too. Cheers, Ghamal

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Question:

Even at $80, you’re only paying $4/bottle. Well worth it in my mind. Someday, I’ll try a side by side of each price level.

Wine cost $2.67/bottle…. (30 750-ml bottles per 6 gallon kit) Corks $0.15/bottle Capsules $0.06/bottle Total $2.88 Even if you are buying the bottles, $0.83/bottle, the total is still less than $4…. I have bottled wine in beer bottles with a crown cap without any problems. I just filled it to the very top and capped.  I did drink those bottles first after the aging process…. Cheers, Mike

Response:

Sorry to butt in on the conversation .. thinking about trying winemaking too. Noticed that the kits, specifically the Selection and Vintners Reserve seem to differ quite a bit in price (about $50 with Vintners vs. $80 with Selection). Is there a significant difference in the two lines? One better than the other in certain respects?

I usually pay for the more expensive kits.  I have no experience with the cheaper ones, but a winemaking buddy said he thought they all made good wine, he just though the more pricey ones he had made were better wine. That was good enough for me… Cheers, Mike

Response:

Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle. Start with a white wine so that you can taste the results sooner. You may be able to drink them sooner, but they are more difficult to make. If you can’t cold ferment (no warmer than 60F, and cooler is better), then I would recommend sticking with reds.

I have to shamefully admit I have never worried about the wine fermenting temps on the kits I have done… Cheers, Mike

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— I usually pay for the more expensive kits.  I have no experience with the cheaper ones, but a winemaking buddy said he thought they all made good wine, he just though the more pricey ones he had made were better wine. That was good enough for me…

There is a wine club made up largely of geezers that meets here in my store. They do what is called their "concentrate project" every year.  They typically used canned concentrates to make fun of concentrates.  I talked them into trying Brew Kings products.  They choose the Gewertz.  They were curious about whether or not there was much difference between the Reserve and Selection line so they decided to do both.  About half choose the Reserve and the other half made the Selection.  A year later they did a blind judging.  The batches split dead evenly with the same number of Reserve and Selection in both the top half of the scoring and the bottom half.  The pompous member who "doesn’t do concentrates anymore" said that he wished he had done this one.  Another guy walked up to me and said that this was the first meeting in a long time where all the wine was good.  One of the Selections, which was sparkled, took BOS at the Ohio State Fair. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry to butt in on the conversation .. thinking about trying winemaking too. Noticed that the kits, specifically the Selection and Vintners Reserve seem to differ quite a bit in price (about $50 with Vintners vs. $80 with Selection). Is there a significant difference in the two lines? One better than the other in certain respects? Cheers, Mike

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I jumped straight into brewing with all-grain, so I figured if I’m going to do wine, it’ll be all-grape :-) I’ve never sat down and calculated how many grapes to buy so I have no clue how to look at it from a price point of view. I’m still a kitster. Burp, -Dan

– Todd Enlund      "Bandits at 3 O’Clock"      "Roger.  What should I do ’till then?"

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I jumped straight into brewing with all-grain, so I figured if I’m going to do wine, it’ll be all-grape :-)

I know people that buy juice (must?) from the vineyard. That seems like a huge challenge to me. In the wine world, I am a kit boy…;) Cheers, Mike

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I know people that buy juice (must?) from the vineyard. That seems like a huge challenge to me. In the wine world, I am a kit boy…;)

The assumption with fresh fruit or juice is that it must be better than concentrate.  It is like the assumption that all-grain must be better than extract.  In truth the concentrate, especially the Canadian ones, are professionally acid and sugar balanced to make a commercial grade wine.  Few rank amateurs have the skills or equipment to produce wine at these levels. Now for entertainment value, raw grapes are hard to beat.  A little Italian music, a tub and throw your shoes off and stomp away.  This is what Campton tablets are for. — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cheers, Mike

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You don’t say if your scale is from 1-10 or what but if it is I would give kit winemaking about a 2 compared to extract brewing at 4 but I would have to agree with bregent that making great wine from grapes is probably at least as difficult as making great all-grain beer and definitely takes more time overall – but its spread out over many weeks, if not months. As far as equipment, you will have just about everything except bottles for kit wines (which are surprisingly good if you buy the higher end ones. To make wine from grapes you maybe can find someone else with a crusher and press or go in with others to purchase these items. Miker – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale? How much time does winemaking take? Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need? Can someone recommend a good winemaking book? Are there many brewers out there who also make wine? Thanks Jim

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Unless you like the flavour notes provided by wild feet yeasts? Athletes foot chardonnay! Those non concentrated kits (i think, 23L) in the bucket, where you just have to add yeast, make very good wine. Expensive but i think worthwhile. A buddy of mine just got one, around 100$ Canadian. john – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -The assumption with fresh fruit or juice is that it must be better than concentrate.  It is like the assumption that all-grain must be better than extract.  In truth the concentrate, especially the Canadian ones, are professionally acid and sugar balanced to make a commercial grade wine. Few rank amateurs have the skills or equipment to produce wine at these levels. Now for entertainment value, raw grapes are hard to beat.  A little Italian music, a tub and throw your shoes off and stomp away.  This is what Campton tablets are for. — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. Cheers, Mike

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Those non concentrated kits (i think, 23L) in the bucket, where you just have to add yeast, make very good wine. Expensive but i think worthwhile. A buddy of mine just got one, around 100$ Canadian.

For the concentrate project I described earlier, I made a Mosti Gewertz 23L kit.  It placed 11th out of 15 with the concentrates splitting evenly.  I am not saying that it was bad, but it was not noticeably better. — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – john The assumption with fresh fruit or juice is that it must be better than concentrate.  It is like the assumption that all-grain must be better than extract.  In truth the concentrate, especially the Canadian ones, are professionally acid and sugar balanced to make a commercial grade wine. Few rank amateurs have the skills or equipment to produce wine at these levels. Now for entertainment value, raw grapes are hard to beat.  A little Italian music, a tub and throw your shoes off and stomp away.  This is what Campton tablets are for. — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. Cheers, Mike

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: I have bottled wine in beer bottles with a crown cap without any problems. : I just filled it to the very top and capped.  I did drink those bottles : first after the aging process…. Actually Mike, those bottles will most likely be better preserved than corked wine bottles. I was reading that some very established Australian wineries are going exclusively to capping – and these are not producers of plonk, either. Apparently the losses due to corking can be considerable, while capping gives a very secure seal. — Bill

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The assumption with fresh fruit or juice is that it must be better than concentrate.  It is like the assumption that all-grain must be better than extract.  In truth the concentrate, especially the Canadian ones, are professionally acid and sugar balanced to make a commercial grade wine.  Few rank amateurs have the skills or equipment to produce wine at these levels.

If your goal is only to save money – then, fine. But…. where’s the "art"?  Dan Shultz says "Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle".  We all have to travel our own road but, to me, this sounds beer kits. Tony V. http://home.attbi.com/~verhulst/RIMS/rims.htm

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: The assumption with fresh fruit or juice is that it must be better than : concentrate.  It is like the assumption that all-grain must be better than : extract.   Right on, Dan. I was thinking the exact same thing, and it’s a good analogy. There are plenty of concentrate kits that produce good wine. Not all of them (and I’ve had some that were sub-par) but many that produce very nice wines. Many that do well in competition, too. But snobbery is the glue that holds the wine community together, and kits are routinely ridiculed, often by people who have not tried any of the decent one’s recently. I remember one evening my wife and I went to another couple’s for dinner. This couple are wine enthusiasts, and we have gone on ‘wine vacations’ with them in the past. Anyway, I brought a bottle of chardonnay that I had made from a kit. I was a bit nervous when they produced an Australian Chardonnay, thinking that it might make my wine taste like crap in comparision. We poured them both, and surprisingly, the kit wine wasn’t crappy at all: in fact, it was so good that there was a 50-50 split on which wine was better, but for all of us it was a really close call. They were both good. And that’s good enough for me! Bill

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The price of the kit is a combination of several things. Perhaps the single biggest contribution to the final price is the level of concentration of the juice. Some are very concentrated while others offer un-concentrated juices. Generally the concentrated juices are cheaper as they are smaller in size, weigh less, and are cheaper to ship. There will also be some variety in price depending on the varietals and vineyard. Grapes are seasonal and their cost to the kit producers varies with availability. Blends are often cheaper than single varieties. Also the nation of origin plays a part. The quality has been good on all the kits I’ve sampled. I haven’t come to a conclusion if one kit was significantly better than another. There is a certain amount of convenience in the non-concentrated juices. Some in the house say there was a better, more pronounced fruity aroma in them as well but I didn’t really notice a significant difference.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry to butt in on the conversation .. thinking about trying winemaking too. Noticed that the kits, specifically the Selection and Vintners Reserve seem to differ quite a bit in price (about $50 with Vintners vs. $80 with Selection). Is there a significant difference in the two lines? One better than the other in certain respects?

Response:

I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale?

With a kit, about a 1.  From grapes, I don’t even want to think about it…. Assuming a kit… How much time does winemaking take?

15 min max from opening the kit to closing the fermenter.  Then rack many times, and bottle ~1/2 hour… Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need?

Carboys.  I use a large plastic fermenter from primary and then you need at least two carboys to rack back and forth… Can someone recommend a good winemaking book?

If you are doing a kit, you won’t even need one… Are there many brewers out there who also make wine?

Yes. One final note, buy the best kits you can. Not that the small ones make bad wine, but the big ones make excellent wine…. Cheers, Mike

Response:

I’ve never sat down and calculated how many grapes to buy so I have no clue how to look at it from a price point of view. I’m still a kitster. Burp, -Dan — Replace "nospam" with msn to send me email.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is there any economy of scale to be realized?  I’ve thought about going to the vineyards after looking at the listings at Steinbart’s. I was wondering if a group of folks got together, would there be any savings… Wine making from kits is very easy. No cooking to do, no priming for carbonation and sanitation is less worrisome. I have only brewed two kits, both Selection wine kits. I just bought another today, a Pinot Gregio and put my name on the list for some exclusive ones coming out in January. Yes, my wife prefers the wines also. Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle. Start with a white wine so that you can taste the results sooner. Next Fall, I try my first hand at buying the grapes direct. There are many vineyards that sell grapes out here. Most have destemmers and crushers on site. Burp, -Dan — Todd Enlund      "Bandits at 3 O’Clock"      "Roger.  What should I do ’till then?"

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Is there any economy of scale to be realized?  I’ve thought about going to the vineyards after looking at the listings at Steinbart’s. I was wondering if a group of folks got together, would there be any savings… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Wine making from kits is very easy. No cooking to do, no priming for carbonation and sanitation is less worrisome. I have only brewed two kits, both Selection wine kits. I just bought another today, a Pinot Gregio and put my name on the list for some exclusive ones coming out in January. Yes, my wife prefers the wines also. Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle. Start with a white wine so that you can taste the results sooner. Next Fall, I try my first hand at buying the grapes direct. There are many vineyards that sell grapes out here. Most have destemmers and crushers on site. Burp, -Dan

– Todd Enlund      "Bandits at 3 O’Clock"      "Roger.  What should I do ’till then?"

Response:

Wine making from kits is very easy. No cooking to do, no priming for carbonation and sanitation is less worrisome. I have only brewed two kits, both Selection wine kits. I just bought another today, a Pinot Gregio and put my name on the list for some exclusive ones coming out in January. Yes, my wife prefers the wines also. Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle. Start with a white wine so that you can taste the results sooner.

You may be able to drink them sooner, but they are more difficult to make. If you can’t cold ferment (no warmer than 60F, and cooler is better), then I would recommend sticking with reds.

Response:

At Steinbarts today I asked that very same question. The answer I was given was that as you go up the price list, the closer the wine is to the true style and the more likely that the grapes came from fewer vineyards (less blending). I have only made two batches and tasted one so I can only go on what I was told. This third kit, an Italian Pinot Gregio was also from the $80 level (as were my first two). Even at $80, you’re only paying $4/bottle. Well worth it in my mind. Someday, I’ll try a side by side of each price level. The manufacturer of the Selection wines is coming out with four special varieties with one released each month from Jan through April. I had to put my name on a list as these are special order. I’m looking forward to giving those a try. Burp, -Dan — Replace "nospam" with msn to send me email.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry to butt in on the conversation .. thinking about trying winemaking too. Noticed that the kits, specifically the Selection and Vintners Reserve seem to differ quite a bit in price (about $50 with Vintners vs. $80 with Selection). Is there a significant difference in the two lines? One better than the other in certain respects? Wine making from kits is very easy. No cooking to do, no priming for carbonation and sanitation is less worrisome. I have only brewed two kits, both Selection wine kits. I just bought another today, a Pinot Gregio and put my name on the list for some exclusive ones coming out in January. Yes, my wife prefers the wines also. Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle. Start with a white wine so that you can taste the results sooner. Next Fall, I try my first hand at buying the grapes direct. There are many vineyards that sell grapes out here. Most have destemmers and crushers on site. Burp, -Dan — Replace nospam with msn to email me. I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale? How much time does winemaking take? Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need? Can someone recommend a good winemaking book? Are there many brewers out there who also make wine? Thanks Jim

Response:

I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale.

About 12. Whipping up a ‘batch’ of wine is easy. Making a high quality wine is not. Beermaking is all recipe formulation and process control. Once you have a good formula and good control, you can make good beer every time. Wines are different every time, because grapes vary every year. Learning how to adjust for the difference is part science and art. How much time does winemaking take?

When you factor in the time for crushing, knocking down, pressing, racking(at least 3 times), testing (ML, TA, pH, Sulphite), sulphiting, ullage, filtering, cold stabilizing, bottling, etc, etc…..it’s much more time consuming than beer. I would guess that #200 of grapes takes me at least 15 hours of processing time. Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need? Can someone recommend a good winemaking book? Are there many brewers out there who also make wine?

Check out rec.crafts.winemaking

Response:

Dude, Making wine is a lot less complicated than brewing up a batch of good beer. And the level of sanitation is more forgiving…I like to knock out 5 gal batches of "Berry Wine" for the  wife. (I have a 5 gallon batch of Blueberry/Black Raspberry aging in glass right now) A batch last her a long time and she doesn’t give me any grief about brewing beer…:) Have fun…:) I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. Snip

Making wine is a lot less complicated than brewing up a batch of good beer. And the level of sanitation is more forgiving…I like to knock out 5 gal batches of "Berry Wine" for the  wife. A batch last her a long time and she doesn’t give me any grief about brewing beer…:)

Response:

Sorry to butt in on the conversation .. thinking about trying winemaking too. Noticed that the kits, specifically the Selection and Vintners Reserve seem to differ quite a bit in price (about $50 with Vintners vs. $80 with Selection). Is there a significant difference in the two lines? One better than the other in certain respects?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Wine making from kits is very easy. No cooking to do, no priming for carbonation and sanitation is less worrisome. I have only brewed two kits, both Selection wine kits. I just bought another today, a Pinot Gregio and put my name on the list for some exclusive ones coming out in January. Yes, my wife prefers the wines also. Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle. Start with a white wine so that you can taste the results sooner. Next Fall, I try my first hand at buying the grapes direct. There are many vineyards that sell grapes out here. Most have destemmers and crushers on site. Burp, -Dan — Replace nospam with msn to email me. I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale? How much time does winemaking take? Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need? Can someone recommend a good winemaking book? Are there many brewers out there who also make wine? Thanks Jim

Response:

Wine making from kits is very easy. No cooking to do, no priming for carbonation and sanitation is less worrisome. I have only brewed two kits, both Selection wine kits. I just bought another today, a Pinot Gregio and put my name on the list for some exclusive ones coming out in January. Yes, my wife prefers the wines also. Basically, you add water and yeast and an occasional specialty ingrediant and wait a month until it’s ready to bottle. Start with a white wine so that you can taste the results sooner. Next Fall, I try my first hand at buying the grapes direct. There are many vineyards that sell grapes out here. Most have destemmers and crushers on site. Burp, -Dan — Replace nospam with msn to email me.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale? How much time does winemaking take? Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need? Can someone recommend a good winemaking book? Are there many brewers out there who also make wine? Thanks Jim

Response:

Hi fellow Tull lover and home brewer: I asked the same question a few weeks back and just started a batch of Vintners Merlot last night.  It is easy as sin.  I would give it a difficulty rating of 1.  Actually if you want to give it a shot just get a kit which has instructions and everything you need.  A batch has 6 gallons so a 7.5 gallon bucket would be a good idea (I got that for $14 with a rubber bung).  If you are an allgrain brewer you could make a batch of wine while you mas your grains!  Ofcourse you will need 30 plus wine bottles, a quality corker and corks.  Ofcourse I have not tried my wine yet.  Good luck.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale? How much time does winemaking take? Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need? Can someone recommend a good winemaking book? Are there many brewers out there who also make wine? Thanks Jim

Response:

I’m considering winemaking, since SWMBO is not very interested in beer (more for me!).  Of course, I wouldn’t even consider to stop brewing. I’ve been brewing for 14 years, have done extract, partial mash, and all grain. If I were to rate extract brewing at a ‘4′ level of difficulty, and all grain at an 8 or so, where would winemaking fall on this scale? How much time does winemaking take? Is there any additional equipment (over and above my brewing equipment) that I would need? Can someone recommend a good winemaking book? Are there many brewers out there who also make wine? Thanks Jim

Response:

Question:

You’re right John.  There is a difference and I should not have made the references in the same sentence.  What I should have said was that since the water from the DW can’t enter the bottle to effectively sanitize them, sterilization would at least be necessary and that can’t possibly occur at DW temps.

You’re correct in that you’re not relying on water or any sanitizing solution, so it doesn’t matter that water does not get into the bottles in the DW. However, you’re missing that you don’t need sterilization temperatures from the heat cycle, you only need sanitization temperatures.  You need a much lower temperature to sanitize than you do to sterilize.  You’re quote of 350F for sterilization may be right, but you don’t need that level in a home environment.  It’s virtually impossible to make anything completely sterile at home unless you happen to have lab equipment (an autoclave will do the 350F that you are quoting).  All you need the heat of the drying cycle in a DW to do is kill *most* of the bacteria.  Many DWs will get up above pasteurization temperatures (160F) during the drying cycle, and get hot enough to kill the majority of bacteria.  At least, that’s my understanding.  I still may be wrong.  If you want to argue that the temps of a DW dry cycle won’t sanitize/pasteurize, that may be a valid point. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

Kyle, good post. Here’s a question: if it is the heat dry cycle that does the sanitizing (I agree with that. It’s the 168 degrees or so that the bacteria don’t like) why not sanitize bottles in a 200 degree oven? Has anyone tried that before? After all it’s not the water that will sanitize them, but the heat. Of course this assumes you are starting with clean bottles. Just a thought.

Yes, that’s how it works.  Many people do use the oven for sanitization. It’s the same principal.  The difference with a dishwasher is that you already have the racks for placing the bottles, and you can slide each rack in and out.  It makes it a little bit easier to deal with lots of bottles than it is in the oven. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

Kyle, Referring back to John’s post, it’s important to note that sanitizing and sterilizing are 2 different things.  If you want to oven sterilize, you certainly can, but the cost would be outrageous over the long haul. Anything less than 2 hours at 350F is like doing nothing at all.  There’s also some controversy about weakening the bottles.  Compare the cost of using an oven to about $.02 worth of Iodiphor and smidgeon of effort using a $14 bottle sanitizer.  Get it with a tree and you won’t regret it.  By far the best and easiest way to sanitize your bottles.  Use it while you bottle and it’s a huge time saver too.  The link below is just an example as I’m sure just about all the on-line shops sell them.  (I’m sure Dan L. does as well.) http://www.williamsbrewing.com/AB1605000/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=134284… 1&St2=72905001&St3=-84078599&DS_ID=2&Product_ID=152&DID=7 Russ Boise

Thanks There are guys that use the oven to sanatize.  There have been posts about it on this newsgroup in the past.  The only problem with the oven is that you

probably wont be able to put as many bottles in the oven as you can in a dishwasher.  Do a search

on goggle. you may be – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – able to find it. Kyle, good post. Here’s a question: if it is the heat dry cycle that does the sanitizing (I agree with that. It’s the 168 degrees or so that the bacteria don’t like) why not sanitize bottles in a 200 degree oven? Has anyone tried that before? After all it’s not the water that will sanitize them, but the heat. Of course this assumes you are starting with clean bottles. Just a thought. Hey, Jon wine maker, how do you measure the amount of clorine in the water? Do you use those "strips" that I posted earlier? Or is there another method. Thanks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Using a Dishwasher is NOT a waste and it is NOT potentially bad for your beer. I have only used a dishwasher to sanatize my bottles and have NEVER had a problem. True water will not necessarily get up into the bottles to "clean" them, but I’m not cleaning the bottles I’m sanatizing them.  I always rinse my bottles right after I pour a glass to get any yeast settlement out of them. Then I load them in the dishwasher. Luckily we have an older dishwasher that the wife doesn’t use. Its one of those on wheels that has to be moved over the sink and have the hose attach to the faucet. If I’m not mistaken, a lot of the newer dishwashers have a sanatizing cycle on them, and those that don’t do produce enough heat during the dry cycle to sanatize.  This is great for people with infants and for home brewers as both baby bottles and beer bottles need to be sanatized. The one thing to remember if you do use a dishwasher is to NOT use any soap. Soap will kill the head. For extra measure the last few times I’ve used the dishwasher is put 2 tablespoons of sanatizing solution where the dish soap would go. Then put it on a full cycle including HEAT DRY.  I normally run the bottles through on the day that I’m going to bottle then just take the bottles right out of the dishwasher as I’m bottling. Piece of cake. It is the HEAT DRYING part of the cycle that sanatizes. I have run hundreds, if not thousands of beer bottles through the dishwasher with no problems at all. Kyle If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine  to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work  just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles  before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just  put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that  be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then  rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

You’re right John.  There is a difference and I should not have made the references in the same sentence.  What I should have said was that since the water from the DW can’t enter the bottle to effectively sanitize them, sterilization would at least be necessary and that can’t possibly occur at DW temps. In any case, your point is well taken and the differences in their use should be noted. Cheers, Russ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – sanitizing to occur.  Secondly, the heat cycle of a dishwasher can never get even close to the temps needed to ’sanitize’ your bottles.  350′F for 2 hours in a dry environment (oven) is where sterilization ‘begins’ to occur. Sterilization and Sanitation are two very different things. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

The same Department of Health will not certify any home dishwasher for institutional (commercial) sanitizing. My Maytag has a "Sani-Clean" mode but when I asked the retailed they were very careful to say that it does not meet any DoH codes for sanitization. To get a dishwasher with DoH approvals, you need a commercial quality dishwasher. I’ll bet a case of BW that if you bottled straight into the bottles that you put through the dishwasher, you have the same results as those that go through the dishwasher. In other words, your not getting much bang for your buck (time) in using a dishwasher. You can do whatever you want but to try and perpetuate a process that doesn’t have any facts behind it is a disservice to the people on this NG. Burp, -Dan — Replace "nospam" with msn to send me email.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m not sterilizing my bottles, I’m sanatizing them. There is a difference. The Department of Health recommends to sanatize cooking tools to immerse in hot water (approx 170*) for 30 seconds.  That is a far cry from your 350* for 2 hours for sterilizing. Like I said, I’ve sanatized thousands of bottles in the dishwasher with no problems at all. Thats not kidding myself, thats a proven fact. If it wasn’t sanatizing wouldn’t it have caused an infection in my beer at least once? If you don’t want to use a dishwasher thats fine. But you can’t say it doesn’t do the job.

Response:

I’m not sterilizing my bottles, I’m sanatizing them. There is a difference. The Department of Health recommends to sanatize cooking tools to immerse in hot water (approx 170*) for 30 seconds.  That is a far cry from your 350* for 2 hours for sterilizing. Like I said, I’ve sanatized thousands of bottles in the dishwasher with no problems at all. Thats not kidding myself, thats a proven fact. If it wasn’t sanatizing wouldn’t it have caused an infection in my beer at least once? If you don’t want to use a dishwasher thats fine. But you can’t say it doesn’t do the job. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think the key word used is ‘potentially’ bad for your beer.  It never caused me any problems when I did it either.  As I’m sure 99% of the time, it never would.  But it’s just not doing anything for you.  You are kidding yourself if you think the dishwasher is sanitizing your bottles.  For starters, as you agreed, water can’t get up into the bottles for any sanitizing to occur.  Secondly, the heat cycle of a dishwasher can never get even close to the temps needed to ’sanitize’ your bottles.  350′F for 2 hours in a dry environment (oven) is where sterilization ‘begins’ to occur. A wet environment (as found in your dishwasher) takes even longer and under pressure.  Baby bottles are completely different than beer bottles on so many levels, they can’t even enter into the same conversation.  But, if putting your bottles in your dishwasher makes you feel better, then by all means do it.  Though I can absolutely guarantee beyond a shadow of a doubt, your dishwasher is not sanitizing your bottles.  About the only thing it’ll do for you is make the outsides of your bottles shiny-clean.  And of course, that warm & fuzzy feeling of thinking it’s doing something good.  (Which I do understand) Using a Dishwasher is NOT a waste and it is NOT potentially bad for your beer. I have only used a dishwasher to sanatize my bottles and have NEVER had a problem. True water will not necessarily get up into the bottles to "clean" them, but I’m not cleaning the bottles I’m sanatizing them.  I always rinse my bottles right after I pour a glass to get any yeast settlement out of them. Then I load them in the dishwasher. Luckily we have an older dishwasher that the wife doesn’t use. Its one of those on wheels that has to be moved over the sink and have the hose attach to the faucet. If I’m not mistaken, a lot of the newer dishwashers have a sanatizing cycle on them, and those that don’t do produce enough heat during the dry cycle to sanatize.  This is great for people with infants and for home brewers as both baby bottles and beer bottles need to be sanatized. The one thing to remember if you do use a dishwasher is to NOT use any soap. Soap will kill the head. For extra measure the last few times I’ve used the dishwasher is put 2 tablespoons of sanatizing solution where the dish soap would go. Then put it on a full cycle including HEAT DRY.  I normally run the bottles through on the day that I’m going to bottle then just take the bottles right out of the dishwasher as I’m bottling. Piece of cake. It is the HEAT DRYING part of the cycle that sanatizes. I have run hundreds, if not thousands of beer bottles through the dishwasher with no problems at all. Kyle If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

Thanks There are guys that use the oven to sanatize.  There have been posts about it on this newsgroup in the past.  The only problem with the oven is that you probably wont be able to put as many bottles in the oven as you can in a dishwasher.  Do a search on goggle. you may be able to find it. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Kyle, good post. Here’s a question: if it is the heat dry cycle that does the sanitizing (I agree with that. It’s the 168 degrees or so that the bacteria don’t like) why not sanitize bottles in a 200 degree oven? Has anyone tried that before? After all it’s not the water that will sanitize them, but the heat. Of course this assumes you are starting with clean bottles. Just a thought. Hey, Jon wine maker, how do you measure the amount of clorine in the water? Do you use those "strips" that I posted earlier? Or is there another method. Thanks. Using a Dishwasher is NOT a waste and it is NOT potentially bad for your beer. I have only used a dishwasher to sanatize my bottles and have NEVER had a problem. True water will not necessarily get up into the bottles to "clean" them, but I’m not cleaning the bottles I’m sanatizing them.  I always rinse my bottles right after I pour a glass to get any yeast settlement out of them. Then I load them in the dishwasher. Luckily we have an older dishwasher that the wife doesn’t use. Its one of those on wheels that has to be moved over the sink and have the hose attach to the faucet. If I’m not mistaken, a lot of the newer dishwashers have a sanatizing cycle on them, and those that don’t do produce enough heat during the dry cycle to sanatize.  This is great for people with infants and for home brewers as both baby bottles and beer bottles need to be sanatized. The one thing to remember if you do use a dishwasher is to NOT use any soap. Soap will kill the head. For extra measure the last few times I’ve used the dishwasher is put 2 tablespoons of sanatizing solution where the dish soap would go. Then put it on a full cycle including HEAT DRY.  I normally run the bottles through on the day that I’m going to bottle then just take the bottles right out of the dishwasher as I’m bottling. Piece of cake. It is the HEAT DRYING part of the cycle that sanatizes. I have run hundreds, if not thousands of beer bottles through the dishwasher with no problems at all. Kyle If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine  to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work  just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles  before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just  put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that  be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then  rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

sanitizing to occur.  Secondly, the heat cycle of a dishwasher can never get even close to the temps needed to ’sanitize’ your bottles.  350′F for 2 hours in a dry environment (oven) is where sterilization ‘begins’ to occur.

Sterilization and Sanitation are two very different things. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

Seeing as my bottles are soaking in the tub right now, I felt the need to add my 2cents. I have never used a bottle brush. I know, you must be shocked but I rince out my bottles after drinking. I’m bottling today for the first time in 8 years and had to go through my old bottles from back then. Nearly all of them were in perfect condition ‘cept for some dust. My method for sterilizing is to let them soak (labels and all!) in the tub with water and clorox. I’m still working the correct amount of clorox to add so that I don’t need to rinse the bottles after the soak. I found this post interesting on that topic: http://groups.google.com/groups?q=sterilization+%2Bchlorine+group:rec… But all my other batches have been with bottles soaked in the tub and rinced afterward. And I’ve had no (uh, well, few) problems. Cheers. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Fiscus, as others have responded, a dishwasher is not suitable for washing bottles as not enough water will be able to get inside. Plenty of folks do use them for sanitizing with good success though. Depending on the temperatures, it should work. However, if you think you’ll be bottling for a while, I suggest getting a bottle tree and vinator sanitizer injector. You’ll find it much easier and faster to sanitize bottles compared to a dishwasher. They cost about $30, but will probabl pay for itself in energy savings.

Response:

I like the bottle brush in the drill tip Alan.  I never would have thought of that, but I’ll try it on my next batch. Thanks — Redman Posted via the BrewersTalk.com forums. View this thread: http://www.brewerstalk.com/showthread.php?threadid=918

Response:

Kyle, good post. Here’s a question: if it is the heat dry cycle that does the sanitizing (I agree with that. It’s the 168 degrees or so that the bacteria don’t like) why not sanitize bottles in a 200 degree oven? Has anyone tried that before? After all it’s not the water that will sanitize them, but the heat. Of course this assumes you are starting with clean bottles. Just a thought. Hey, Jon wine maker, how do you measure the amount of clorine in the water? Do you use those "strips" that I posted earlier? Or is there another method. Thanks. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Using a Dishwasher is NOT a waste and it is NOT potentially bad for your beer. I have only used a dishwasher to sanatize my bottles and have NEVER had a problem. True water will not necessarily get up into the bottles to "clean" them, but I’m not cleaning the bottles I’m sanatizing them.  I always rinse my bottles right after I pour a glass to get any yeast settlement out of them. Then I load them in the dishwasher. Luckily we have an older dishwasher that the wife doesn’t use. Its one of those on wheels that has to be moved over the sink and have the hose attach to the faucet. If I’m not mistaken, a lot of the newer dishwashers have a sanatizing cycle on them, and those that don’t do produce enough heat during the dry cycle to sanatize.  This is great for people with infants and for home brewers as both baby bottles and beer bottles need to be sanatized. The one thing to remember if you do use a dishwasher is to NOT use any soap. Soap will kill the head. For extra measure the last few times I’ve used the dishwasher is put 2 tablespoons of sanatizing solution where the dish soap would go. Then put it on a full cycle including HEAT DRY.  I normally run the bottles through on the day that I’m going to bottle then just take the bottles right out of the dishwasher as I’m bottling. Piece of cake. It is the HEAT DRYING part of the cycle that sanatizes. I have run hundreds, if not thousands of beer bottles through the dishwasher with no problems at all. Kyle If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine  to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work  just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles  before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just  put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that  be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then  rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

John, I use bottled water for my wine and any other type of brewing. I have well water here at home and to be honest it doesn’t taste all that great. Even after the softener… Most people that use city water to brew don’t seem to have trouble with chlorine. I guess if you let the water sit for a short period of time the chlorine evaporates? Or works it’s way out naturally somehow. I’m sure someone else will jump in here with their details. Sorry. Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

Kyle, good post. Here’s a question: if it is the heat dry cycle that does the sanitizing (I agree with that. It’s the 168 degrees or so that the bacteria don’t like) why not sanitize bottles in a 200 degree oven? Has anyone tried that before? After all it’s not the water that will sanitize them, but the heat. Of course this assumes you are starting with clean bottles. Just a thought. Hey, Jon wine maker, how do you measure the amount of clorine in the water? Do you use those "strips" that I posted earlier? Or is there another method. Thanks.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Using a Dishwasher is NOT a waste and it is NOT potentially bad for your beer. I have only used a dishwasher to sanatize my bottles and have NEVER had a problem. True water will not necessarily get up into the bottles to "clean" them, but I’m not cleaning the bottles I’m sanatizing them.  I always rinse my bottles right after I pour a glass to get any yeast settlement out of them. Then I load them in the dishwasher. Luckily we have an older dishwasher that the wife doesn’t use. Its one of those on wheels that has to be moved over the sink and have the hose attach to the faucet. If I’m not mistaken, a lot of the newer dishwashers have a sanatizing cycle on them, and those that don’t do produce enough heat during the dry cycle to sanatize.  This is great for people with infants and for home brewers as both baby bottles and beer bottles need to be sanatized. The one thing to remember if you do use a dishwasher is to NOT use any soap. Soap will kill the head. For extra measure the last few times I’ve used the dishwasher is put 2 tablespoons of sanatizing solution where the dish soap would go. Then put it on a full cycle including HEAT DRY.  I normally run the bottles through on the day that I’m going to bottle then just take the bottles right out of the dishwasher as I’m bottling. Piece of cake. It is the HEAT DRYING part of the cycle that sanatizes. I have run hundreds, if not thousands of beer bottles through the dishwasher with no problems at all. Kyle If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine  to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work  just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles  before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just  put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that  be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then  rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water?

Putting bottles in the dishwasher will not clean them, so you’ll need to do that yourself first.  If your dishwasher’s drying cycle (do not use energy-save mode) is hot enough, it’s possible to heat sanitize the bottles in the dishwasher. John. —                            *** John P. Kolesar ***                          *** Valley Mead Brewery ***

Response:

There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water?

Fiscus, as others have responded, a dishwasher is not suitable for washing bottles as not enough water will be able to get inside. Plenty of folks do use them for sanitizing with good success though. Depending on the temperatures, it should work. However, if you think you’ll be bottling for a while, I suggest getting a bottle tree and vinator sanitizer injector. You’ll find it much easier and faster to sanitize bottles compared to a dishwasher. They cost about $30, but will probabl pay for itself in energy savings.

Response:

I never could trust the dw there Fiscus.I put to much work into my beer.I cut the loop off the end of my bottle brush and chuck it in my cordless drill and presto.Automatic bottle washer.Find a bucket big enough to hold about 15 bottles submerged and your a bottle washing machine.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

I think the key word used is ‘potentially’ bad for your beer.  It never caused me any problems when I did it either.  As I’m sure 99% of the time, it never would.  But it’s just not doing anything for you.  You are kidding yourself if you think the dishwasher is sanitizing your bottles.  For starters, as you agreed, water can’t get up into the bottles for any sanitizing to occur.  Secondly, the heat cycle of a dishwasher can never get even close to the temps needed to ’sanitize’ your bottles.  350′F for 2 hours in a dry environment (oven) is where sterilization ‘begins’ to occur. A wet environment (as found in your dishwasher) takes even longer and under pressure.  Baby bottles are completely different than beer bottles on so many levels, they can’t even enter into the same conversation.  But, if putting your bottles in your dishwasher makes you feel better, then by all means do it.  Though I can absolutely guarantee beyond a shadow of a doubt, your dishwasher is not sanitizing your bottles.  About the only thing it’ll do for you is make the outsides of your bottles shiny-clean.  And of course, that warm & fuzzy feeling of thinking it’s doing something good.  (Which I do understand)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Using a Dishwasher is NOT a waste and it is NOT potentially bad for your beer. I have only used a dishwasher to sanatize my bottles and have NEVER had a problem. True water will not necessarily get up into the bottles to "clean" them, but I’m not cleaning the bottles I’m sanatizing them.  I always rinse my bottles right after I pour a glass to get any yeast settlement out of them. Then I load them in the dishwasher. Luckily we have an older dishwasher that the wife doesn’t use. Its one of those on wheels that has to be moved over the sink and have the hose attach to the faucet. If I’m not mistaken, a lot of the newer dishwashers have a sanatizing cycle on them, and those that don’t do produce enough heat during the dry cycle to sanatize.  This is great for people with infants and for home brewers as both baby bottles and beer bottles need to be sanatized. The one thing to remember if you do use a dishwasher is to NOT use any soap. Soap will kill the head. For extra measure the last few times I’ve used the dishwasher is put 2 tablespoons of sanatizing solution where the dish soap would go. Then put it on a full cycle including HEAT DRY.  I normally run the bottles through on the day that I’m going to bottle then just take the bottles right out of the dishwasher as I’m bottling. Piece of cake. It is the HEAT DRYING part of the cycle that sanatizes. I have run hundreds, if not thousands of beer bottles through the dishwasher with no problems at all. Kyle If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

Using a Dishwasher is NOT a waste and it is NOT potentially bad for your beer. I have only used a dishwasher to sanatize my bottles and have NEVER had a problem. True water will not necessarily get up into the bottles to "clean" them, but I’m not cleaning the bottles I’m sanatizing them.  I always rinse my bottles right after I pour a glass to get any yeast settlement out of them. Then I load them in the dishwasher. Luckily we have an older dishwasher that the wife doesn’t use. Its one of those on wheels that has to be moved over the sink and have the hose attach to the faucet. If I’m not mistaken, a lot of the newer dishwashers have a sanatizing cycle on them, and those that don’t do produce enough heat during the dry cycle to sanatize.  This is great for people with infants and for home brewers as both baby bottles and beer bottles need to be sanatized. The one thing to remember if you do use a dishwasher is to NOT use any soap. Soap will kill the head. For extra measure the last few times I’ve used the dishwasher is put 2 tablespoons of sanatizing solution where the dish soap would go. Then put it on a full cycle including HEAT DRY.  I normally run the bottles through on the day that I’m going to bottle then just take the bottles right out of the dishwasher as I’m bottling. Piece of cake. It is the HEAT DRYING part of the cycle that sanatizes. I have run hundreds, if not thousands of beer bottles through the dishwasher with no problems at all. Kyle – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine to use?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

If there’s water spashing or rinsing, make sure the wife hasn’t put any jetdry in the machine… They say that’ll kill the head retention. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

In wine making, using a dishwasher to "sterilize" anything let alone bottles would be a no-no. In fact, several years ago I took a beer making class with some friends from work and they made it a point to not use the dishwasher. The temps are indeed hot, but they are not hot enough to sterilize. I recommend sterilizing your bottles after a good washing. Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work just fine….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

If using a dishwasher makes you feel better about your bottles, maybe you should take a closer look at what’s happening.  Using a DW is not only a waste, it’s potentially bad for your beer in many ways.  First off, water can’t get up inside the bottles so there isn’t any ‘inner’ cleaning value. It also cannot possibly sanitize the bottle.  Then you have water getting into the neck of the bottle, further voiding any sanitizing.  And don’t forget the other contaminants and inhibitors like Jet-dry, old soap residue, and food particles.  When I first started brewing, I’d clean & sanitize, then run them through to gain an extra measure.  However, I quickly learned how wrong that was.  I always clean my bottles after use and only sanitize before filling.  The best thing I’ve found is the little bottle tree washer sold by most on-line shops.  The tree’s are nice too, but all you really need is the pump washer itself.  Make a recirculating iodiphor solution and jet-squirt the bottles just prior to filling them.  Using the little ‘fingers’, set them upside-down in a clean DW to allow them to drain while filling the others.  DO NOT RINSE.  As long as you let the iodiphor drain for a few seconds, you’ll never taste it and it will not interfere with any priming.  And the best part is that it’s e-a-s-y. Russ Boise

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine to use? Thats all I do with some bleach and a hot dry…it always seems to work just fine…. There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

Yeah it’s nice an easy solution? Anyone else had experience/problems with this? Or is the dishwasher fine to use?

I always put em in for a cycle before bottling.  But you should be careful, one batch I made I confused the bottles and put about 6 or 7 in the dishwasher that I hadn’t washed out the inside of yet.  that six pack was bad, very BAD! — Captain Rotundo * rot-13 to email alt.games.mame FAQ: http://www.tombstones.org.uk/~faq/

Response:

Yep, I know, I’m a wine’o but I’ve been lurking around here off and on… I’m just now getting into kegging soda’s for my wife and kids so this group is about the best place to pick up good info… I’ve done beer in the past but I’m just not into it much anymore. Mead’s are next on my hit list but I’ve been so busy with work and now Christmas on it’s way, it might be the new year before I get the first batch fermenting. Either way, I’m always worried about keeping my equipment and bottles sterile. Jon. —      Come visit us on the web! http://www.largescale-trains.com     Home of the JJ&C Railroad

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In wine making, using a dishwasher to "sterilize" anything let alone bottles would be a no-no. In fact, several years ago I took a beer making class with some friends from work and they made it a point to not use the dishwasher. The temps are indeed hot, but they are not hot enough to sterilize. I recommend sterilizing your bottles after a good washing. Jon. Being a winemaker in a beermaking group, how would you suggest that? JK. The best way to clean and sanitize would be to soak for a few hours in a solution of oxyclean and hot water (this cleans the bottles better than using a brush, and takes the labels off in the process) then soak in a 12.5ppm to 25ppm solution of idophor and lukewarm water, air dry and bottle.

Response:

There was talk in here earlier about cleaning/sanitizing bottles before bottling….lots of people had different ways to clean and prep their bottles. Is just putting them in the dishwasher enough preparation? I have just put some bottles on the a full long cycle on the hotest temps….will that be enough….or do i still have to wash with sanitizing solution and then rinse again in (boiled) water? Thanks in Advanced.

Response:

Question:

I have the following wines that are clear and stable from the 2001 vintage: Marechal Foch Chambourcin Chancellor Noir and no matter what I do, they won’t de-gas them so I can bottle.

What do you mean by "they won’t de-gas them"? Are there any sign of CO2 in the wine? What signs? I normally use a day or two to de-gas a wine using a rod on a drill. J

Question:

I remember having blueberry, strawberry and bakeapple…the last one was my favourite… i have a feeling there will be a fair amount of variation from year to year because of variations in the fruit,, though im sure they do some blending….but you could always pick up a bottle and see for yourself… i think i am making a trip back east next spring or summer! what a beautiful place! John John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Have only tried one of their wines, but did not like the lack of body, But you never know, that was over 3 years ago. Might be something to look into. — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club

Response:

2. Draw 1 cup of wine from Carboy, discard 1/2 cup. Add Pkg. #2a Potassium Metabisulphite and Pkg. #2b Potassium Sorbate to the 1/2 cup remaining. Stir to mix well.

I’d give some serious thought to skipping the Potassium Sorbate as it does impart a taste that some people do not like. I tasted a friends kit wine that he made by the instructions and I think the kit manufacturer went a bit too far on the safe side. Don’t do it lightly though – read up on Sorbate and making dry wines or else follow the directions. Any archive of this news group will have many postings on Sorbate. Don

Response:

Have only tried one of their wines, but did not like the lack of body, But you never know, that was over 3 years ago. Might be something to look into. — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club " Not A Problem "

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I still have a bottle of Rodrigues Strawberry wine. I think it’s from ‘98 Ever try any of their fruit wines? I had a bottle of bakeapple wine as well, it was really something …. Totally unlike anything else, but i liked it On a side note, the food was good but not for my arteries – you guys are surroudned by ocean and the only fish i could find was deep fried in batter ala Ches’s John Yup, you guessed it NEWFOUNDLAND. And what a place it is. You should come back. Great food and even better home vinted wines. — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club " Not A Problem " Thanks! By the way, St. John’s Newfoundland? Was there last year in september for a week…My favourite city in the whole world after Montreal! Wonderful people .. John Or go here http://www.rjspagnols.com/HandoutView.asp?HandoutID=120 — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club

Response:

Or go here http://www.rjspagnols.com/HandoutView.asp?HandoutID=120 — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club " Not A Problem "

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone give me ’standard’ instructions for a wine kit? I am pretty new to this and i have the kit but no instructions. it’s a red, in one of those bags (must be at least 10L but im guessing here) John

Response:

I don’t know , that’s the problem. I think it is a Merlot or Cab (i know there is a big difference, i just cant remember). all i have is the bag and pakets of yeast, bentonite etc.. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What kind of kit is it and who makes it? — Mike Polo Community Theater Green Room http://www.communitytheater.org Can anyone give me ’standard’ instructions for a wine kit? I am pretty new to this and i have the kit but no instructions. it’s a red, in one of those bags (must be at least 10L but im guessing here) John

Response:

Thanks! By the way, St. John’s Newfoundland? Was there last year in september for a week…My favourite city in the whole world after Montreal! Wonderful people .. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Or go here http://www.rjspagnols.com/HandoutView.asp?HandoutID=120 — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club

Response:

Yup, you guessed it NEWFOUNDLAND. And what a place it is. You should come back. Great food and even better home vinted wines. — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club " Not A Problem "

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks! By the way, St. John’s Newfoundland? Was there last year in september for a week…My favourite city in the whole world after Montreal! Wonderful people .. John Or go here http://www.rjspagnols.com/HandoutView.asp?HandoutID=120 — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club

Response:

I still have a bottle of Rodrigues Strawberry wine. I think it’s from ‘98 Ever try any of their fruit wines? I had a bottle of bakeapple wine as well, it was really something …. Totally unlike anything else, but i liked it On a side note, the food was good but not for my arteries – you guys are surroudned by ocean and the only fish i could find was deep fried in batter ala Ches’s John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Yup, you guessed it NEWFOUNDLAND. And what a place it is. You should come back. Great food and even better home vinted wines. — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club " Not A Problem " Thanks! By the way, St. John’s Newfoundland? Was there last year in september for a week…My favourite city in the whole world after Montreal! Wonderful people .. John Or go here http://www.rjspagnols.com/HandoutView.asp?HandoutID=120 — Yours In Kin, Vice-President Lee Edwards St. John’s East Kinsmen Club

Response:

Can anyone give me ’standard’ instructions for a wine kit? I am pretty new to this and i have the kit but no instructions. it’s a red, in one of those bags (must be at least 10L but im guessing here) John

Response:

What kind of kit is it and who makes it? — Mike Polo Community Theater Green Room http://www.communitytheater.org

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Can anyone give me ’standard’ instructions for a wine kit? I am pretty new to this and i have the kit but no instructions. it’s a red, in one of those bags (must be at least 10L but im guessing here) John

Response:

Welcome to Wine Making the simple and easy way.You can produce top qual-ity wines in a just four short weeks with little cost and effort by following our simple step by step instructions. We will guide you through the process of kit winemaking, even if this is your first batch. If you have made your own wine before, you will find that our process varies little from standard winemaking procedures. Please read the instructions carefully before you begin. Please Read All Instructions Carefully Before Proceeding One thing before we begin – we cannot stress enough the importance of sanitization in the winemaking process. Everything that touches your wine ( all equipment) must be sanitized with a recognized sanitizing solution. Just as important is thoroughly rinsing off all equipment after the sanitization procedure. Please read the following instruc-tions carefully, and make sure you carry out each step as explained. If you have any questions beyond these instruc-tions, contact your local winemaking supply store. Now, let’s begin! Required Equipment Primary Fermenter: Food-grade plastic container ( 27-46 litre) with cover. Fermenter should be well-marked at the 23 litre level. To do this, fill Carboy with water, pour into Fermenter, mark water level on outside of Fermenter. Carboy ( 23 litre): Either glass ( recommended) or food-grade plastic. Airlock & Rubber Bung: One-way valve to seal Carboy at neck. Airlock must be half-filled with water and attached to Carboy when it is filled with wine. Siphon Assembly: 4 feet of food-grade plastic tubing attached to a rigid acrylic rod. Hydrometer & Test Cylinder: Measures specific gravity to monitor fermentation & sugar levels. Spoon: Food-grade plastic, approximately 28in./70cm. long. Package of Sanitizer Package of Sulphite (for soaking corks) Suggested Equipment Measuring Cup: 2 cup/500 ml. Floating Thermometer: Tracks fermentation temperature. Wine Thief: To remove wine samples from primary or carboy. 30 Wine Bottles: 750 ml. Wine Bottle Closures: 30 corks or plastic T-stoppers Corker: Used with corks only. This can be rented from a retailer. Bottle-filling Wand NOTE: Do not use or substitute additive packages from other wine kits ! Additives (included in kit) Package 1: Bentonite Package 2A: Potassium Metabisulphite Package 2B: Potassium Sorbate Package 3: Clearing Agent Also in Kit: Package of Yeast, Oak Chip Infusion Bag (optional) Primary Fermentation DAY 1 1. Clean and sanitize Primary Fermenter, Lid, Hydrometer, Test Cylinder & Spoon. Make sure everything is well-rinsed before you begin. 2. Add 4 litres of warm water to the Primary Fermenter. Stirring constantly, slowly add Pkg. #1 Bentonite to water until dispersed. 3. Empty contents of Concentrate Bag into mixture in Primary Fermenter. 4. Rinse Bag with hot water and add to Primary Fermenter. 5. Add cool water to Primary Fermenter up to the 23 litre mark. Check to make sure the water tempera-ture in Primary Fermenter is between 20-25

Question:

Dan, Can you give the name of one of these " Canadian" kits. Do you carry them? thanks David Meeker

Response:

Any of the Canadian kits are wonderful, very easy and, on a per bottle basis, very inexpensive.  Avoid the canned kits.

I suggest he buy the most expensive kits, about $65-75.  They make awesome wine… Cheers, Mike

Response:

Dan, Can you give the name of one of these " Canadian" kits. Do you carry them? thanks

Brew King makes them, they keep changing the exact name, but most always it has Selection in the title… Cheers, Mike

Response:

Dan, Can you give the name of one of these " Canadian" kits. Do you carry them? thanks

To my knowledge all the Canadian kits are very good.  We carry Brew King’s Vintners Reserve and Selection series, Spagnol’s Vino Del Vida and Cellar Classics plus Mosti Mondial sterile musts which are not concentrated at all. All these are complete kits that are acid and sugar balanced and come with the yeast, finings and stabilizers.  Some also come with oak chips depending on the style.  You would not believe how easy they are to do and the quality they produce. — Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Free shipping for orders greater than $35 and East of the Mighty Miss. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – David Meeker

Response:

Any of the Canadian kits are wonderful, very easy and, on a per bottle basis, very inexpensive.  Avoid the canned kits. I suggest he buy the most expensive kits, about $65-75.  They make awesome wine…

It might depend on style.  There is a wine club that meets here at the shop comprised mostly of elderly gents ( one died the other week ) who do an annual "concentrate project" that was done mostly to make fun of concentrates.  They usually used canned concentrates.  I talked them into trying the Canadian boxed kits.  They choose Gew

Question:

Speaking of airlock problems… I was racking last week and when I was done I put a 3 piece airlock on and about 30 seconds later I looked at it and it was slowly emptying itself into the carboy!! (lucky for my beer I used boiled and cooled water) I didn’t overfill it or anything, I just don’t know why it did this, Any Ideas…

This is called "suck back" by beer home brewers. As shamu says, it’s because of the temperature differences leading to pressure differences when the temp equalises. I put cheap vodka in my air locks because it once happened to me. Boiled and cooled water is good too. I’ve heard recommendations to put SO2 solution in airlocks, and shudder at the possibilities… — Ross McKay, WebAware Pty Ltd "I got to think less. I had thought that, actually." – John Cusack, "Pushing Tin"

Response:

Speaking of airlock problems… I was racking last week and when I was done I put a 3 piece airlock on and about 30 seconds later I looked at it and it was slowly emptying itself into the carboy!! (lucky for my beer I used boiled and cooled water) I didn’t overfill it or anything, I just don’t know why it did this, Any Ideas… — Louise:o) http://pages.infinit.net/weez1959/ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – and wrote as Gospel Truth in these here little old Usenet NewsFROUPS: I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock? It seems to me that if enough gas builds up it will force it off, or shoot it off and I may end up with quite the mess. If I’m NOT suppose to keep the cap on, then why did they make it with a cap? Thanks for your help. Howdy!! No such thing as a dumb question! Yes, you should keep the floater cap on, and fill the airlock about 1/2 full with water to permit the cap to float…. The gas forming in the fermenter will gradually raise the cap, release the gas, then settle down again to await another burst of gas…… I’ve seen some airlocks with an inner floater cap, and a flat tight-fitting top— the tight-fitting to should be removed, leaving only the floater cap. Sorry– I wish I could draw you a pic to demonstrate what I mean…… Enjoy your winemaking!! It’s a terrific hobby :O) Doc :o ) — SMILE ! Only a DENTIST should look down in the mouth!

Response:

I also am new, but saw this question before.  The inside of the cap on the airlock has three bumps on it preventing it from sealing.  The cap is there to keep out fruit flies, dust, probably even rain if some ferment outside, etc.  It will not blow off, because it can’t seal.  I prefer to keep it on. Good luck Rog – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – and wrote as Gospel Truth in these here little old Usenet NewsFROUPS: I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock? It seems to me that if enough gas builds up it will force it off, or shoot it off and I may end up with quite the mess. If I’m NOT suppose to keep the cap on, then why did they make it with a cap? Thanks for your help. Howdy!! No such thing as a dumb question! Yes, you should keep the floater cap on, and fill the airlock about 1/2 full with water to permit the cap to float…. The gas forming in the fermenter will gradually raise the cap, release the gas, then settle down again to await another burst of gas…… I’ve seen some airlocks with an inner floater cap, and a flat tight-fitting top— the tight-fitting to should be removed, leaving only the floater cap. Sorry– I wish I could draw you a pic to demonstrate what I mean…… Enjoy your winemaking!! It’s a terrific hobby :O) Doc :o ) — SMILE ! Only a DENTIST should look down in the mouth!

Response:

This will happen if the contents of the carboy were warmer than the room temperature.  A vacuum is being created inside the carboy as the fluid Ron

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Speaking of airlock problems… I was racking last week and when I was done I put a 3 piece airlock on and about 30 seconds later I looked at it and it was slowly emptying itself into the carboy!! (lucky for my beer I used boiled and cooled water) I didn’t overfill it or anything, I just don’t know why it did this, Any Ideas… — Louise:o) http://pages.infinit.net/weez1959/ and wrote as Gospel Truth in these here little old Usenet NewsFROUPS: I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock? It seems to me that if enough gas builds up it will force it off, or shoot it off and I may end up with quite the mess. If I’m NOT suppose to keep the cap on, then why did they make it with a cap? Thanks for your help. Howdy!! No such thing as a dumb question! Yes, you should keep the floater cap on, and fill the airlock about 1/2 full with water to permit the cap to float…. The gas forming in the fermenter will gradually raise the cap, release the gas, then settle down again to await another burst of gas…… I’ve seen some airlocks with an inner floater cap, and a flat tight-fitting top— the tight-fitting to should be removed, leaving only the floater cap. Sorry– I wish I could draw you a pic to demonstrate what I mean…… Enjoy your winemaking!! It’s a terrific hobby :O) Doc :o ) — SMILE ! Only a DENTIST should look down in the mouth!

Response:

I would recommend you toss your airlocks and use plastic wrap instead. Tear off about six inches from a standard roll, double it so you have a square, two-layer piece.  Put it over the top of the carboy and put a rubber band around the neck.  Snug but not terribly tight. Unlike an airlock, it will never go dry and let air into your carboy. It covers the top so that when you remove it, the neck is clean. When fermentation slows to a crawl, place a rubber stopper in the carboy (just drop it in, don’t hammer it in) and replace the plastic wrap. I adopted this practice about 35 years ago, and never have had a problem with it. vince norris

Response:

So how did you hear about my latest ’stupid winemaking trick’ all the way down there in Texas, Jack? I’m making Grenache as a rose again this year. I filled a 6 gallon carboy most of the way up with free run juice and was working on the other carboy and had a decent amount of headspace in that one.  Night falls, I’m tired; I’m not emptying out a bit of that first carboy, tomorrows another day. It sure was.  A seed plugged the airlock vent and viola! A new and improve faux finish for about a 20 square foot area! Thankfully I had moved the operation to a new part of the house… I was a very sad man, that was half a gallon of really good must… Oh, well, just goes to prove my favorite saying.  "There is no sense being studid if you are not going to show it once in a while." Regards, Joe – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Robert, use the cap.  It keeps dust, floating microorganisms and insects out of your airlock.  That’s why they included it.  You’ll soon discover there is plenty of room around it for the CO2 to escape and none of the dreaded results you envision will happen unless you start your fermentation under an airlock without leaving sufficient room for foam, a rising cap, expansion of volume from heat. Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Response:

First.  There are no "Dumb" questions, providing that your question is asked honestly. Second.  Yes, leave the cap on.  It slows the evaporation of the liquid in the trap. Keeps fruit flies out too. Dewey .

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock? It seems to me that if enough gas builds up it will force it off, or shoot it off and I may end up with quite the mess. If I’m NOT suppose to keep the cap on, then why did they make it with a cap? Thanks for your help.

Response:

In the cap there are three plastic bumps to prevent a tight seal. This should be enough to let air out.  THe cap prevents dust and dirt and bugs from getting in.  I usually leave it off for the first week, and then after that always leave it on.

Response:

Robert, use the cap.  It keeps dust, floating microorganisms and insects out of your airlock.  That’s why they included it.  You’ll soon discover there is plenty of room around it for the CO2 to escape and none of the dreaded results you envision will happen unless you start your fermentation under an airlock without leaving sufficient room for foam, a rising cap, expansion of volume from heat. Jack Keller, The Winemaking Home Page http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/

Response:

I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock?

Robert, There are several different types of air-locks that I know of. I believe you need to leave your cap on at all times. Your cap probaley has tiny holes through it which allows the co2 to escape and the traped water in the lock does not let the air in the bottle of good stuff. Good luck, Jesse

Response:

If you look inside at the top of the cap you should see 3 little bumps, this keeps it from sealing, allows it to vent. Yes put it on…. — Ben & Linda McCune HoneyCreek Vineyard/Orchard http://honeycreek.us

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock? It seems to me that if enough gas builds up it will force it off, or shoot it off and I may end up with quite the mess. If I’m NOT suppose to keep the cap on, then why did they make it with a cap? Thanks for your help.

Response:

I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock?

Yes.  It has a little vent, doesn’t it?  Mine do. Tom S

Response:

I’m new to the wine making hobby, as you will be able to figure out from my question. :) Am I suppose to keep the cap on my air-lock? It seems to me that if enough gas builds up it will force it off, or shoot it off and I may end up with quite the mess. If I’m NOT suppose to keep the cap on, then why did they make it with a cap? Thanks for your help.

Response:

Question:

I’ve done a couple of Vintner’s Reserve kits and they’re not bad with some age on them. I topped my first one with distilled water, but all the others I’ve used a similar wine… much better results. If you’re going to top off, I would go with a similar wine, store bought if you don’t have anything you’ve made. Keep in mind that if you’ve lost volume by racking rather than not diluting fully when starting out, you can bottle your wine as is… the flavor profile should be steady. Up to you… it’s basically a question of how many bottles you want. — Mike Polo Community Theater Green Room http://www.communitytheater.org

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What do you think of their VIntner’s Reserve kits? I just made a burgundy (about to bottle soon) that tastes very good. Right now the 6-gallons is actually about 5 gallons, and when I racked it after a month it really tasted like something I’d buy in a supermarket. I’m wondering if I should dilute it to 6 gallons at bottling time or if it will taste thin. It tastes a bit strong now. Don I’ve been making kit wines for about a year now, and have moved (quickly) from the low end to the higher end kits. I strongly recommend the Brew King Selection kits, provided you top off with a similar wine. To reply to the author, replace nospam with liamtoh spelled backwards.

Response:

I’ve done Vitners Reserve & Selection Kits – all similar style & tatse If you want world class stuff then try, www.ozwinekitz.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve done a couple of Vintner’s Reserve kits and they’re not bad with some age on them. I topped my first one with distilled water, but all the others I’ve used a similar wine… much better results. If you’re going to top off, I would go with a similar wine, store bought if you don’t have anything you’ve made. Keep in mind that if you’ve lost volume by racking rather than not diluting fully when starting out, you can bottle your wine as is… the flavor profile should be steady. Up to you… it’s basically a question of how many bottles you want. — Mike Polo Community Theater Green Room http://www.communitytheater.org What do you think of their VIntner’s Reserve kits? I just made a burgundy (about to bottle soon) that tastes very good. Right now the 6-gallons is actually about 5 gallons, and when I racked it after a month it really tasted like something I’d buy in a supermarket. I’m wondering if I should dilute it to 6 gallons at bottling time or if it will taste thin. It tastes a bit strong now. Don I’ve been making kit wines for about a year now, and have moved (quickly) from the low end to the higher end kits. I strongly recommend the Brew  King Selection kits, provided you top off with a similar wine. To reply to the author, replace nospam with liamtoh spelled backwards.

Response:

Actually, I didn’t know what to expect — it was my first kit, picked because I like Shiraz but didn’t want to risk too much on a first attempt. Now, having tasted the results of the "second cheapest kit" (I’m sure glad I didn’t select the cheapest one!) and with a somewhat better understanding of the winemaking process, I’d still like to read other users’ comments about specific kit they have completed.

Bart, I was especially pleased with the Selection Murray River blend. Also, their special offering from last season, the Malbec/Shiraz, is one of the best wines I have had – kit or otherwise. Mike

Response:

Bart — I’ve been making kit wines for about a year now, and have moved (quickly) from the low end to the higher end kits. I strongly recommend the Brew King Selection kits, provided you top off with a similar wine. If you top off with water, as I have done (once), you end up with a thinner final product. I have also ventured into the Cellarcraft line from St. Patrick’s of Texas, with the crushed grape pack… (before anyone fusses, you can’t get good vinifera grapes in Delaware) and the Mosti Mondiale 100% juice kits… The Cellarcraft is outstanding with some age on it… the Mondiale is still bulk ageing, but shows a lot of promise. However, for price and availability (online) I like the Brew King Selection. I order from a variety of places, which, to save space, I’ve listed here: http://nappingbear.communitytheater.org/Links.htm . All of these sources have excellent selections, good prices and I usually receive my order in a couple of days. Happy fermenting… Mike Polo Community Theater Green Room http://www.communitytheater.org

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I bottled a 6-gallon batch of Vino del Vida Shiraz on September 1, 2002. I opened a bottle on October 1, 2002, and found it to be disappointing — watery, little body, weak taste. I’d like to start another kit, preferably cabernet sauvignon, and am asking for recommendations from others as to kits they’ve had good results with. Thanks, Bart

Response:

Bart, Consider ordering from Leisure Time, their prices are pretty competitive. Their web site is: http://www.leisure-time.com/winekits.htm

Good recommendation, Esteban. Their prices are indeed very reasonable.  What is your experience on their reliability in filling the order in a timely manner? Mike R

Response:

Actually, I didn’t know what to expect — it was my first kit, picked because I like Shiraz but didn’t want to risk too much on a first attempt. Now, having tasted the results of the "second cheapest kit" (I’m sure glad I didn’t select the cheapest one!) and with a somewhat better understanding of the winemaking process, I’d still like to read other users’ comments about specific kit they have completed.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The kit you bought is the second cheapest kit that RJ Spagnols makes. What do you expect with 7 litres of concentrate?   Try something like the Cellar Classic series (15 litre concentrate) or the Cru Select Gold or Platinum (16 litre)    Check out www.rjspagnols.com K I bottled a 6-gallon batch of Vino del Vida Shiraz on September 1, 2002. I opened a bottle on October 1, 2002, and found it to be disappointing — watery, little body, weak taste. I’d like to start another kit, preferably cabernet sauvignon, and am asking for recommendations from others as to kits they’ve had good results with. Thanks, Bart

Response:

I bottled a 6-gallon batch of Vino del Vida Shiraz on September 1, 2002.  I opened a bottle on October 1, 2002, and found it to be disappointing — watery, little body, weak taste. I’d like to start another kit, preferably cabernet sauvignon, and am asking for recommendations from others as to kits they’ve had good results with. Thanks, Bart

Quick Question, I’m a homebrewer that wants to get into wine making. I made a brew king Vinters Reserve Cab aged it for 45 days, and found the end result product to be tannin laced and barely drinkable.  After giving it the ol’ college try with the Brew King Vinters Merlot, and this time aging it for 6 months, my wife said that the batch had a vinegar finish, and no body.  What gives?  I don’t know much about wine making, but the finished product even this time with patience did have the same finish as the Cab.  I’ve found that in beer making the yeast makes all of the difference.  Is that the same in wine making? Would you think that using a better yeast would improve the results should I try again? Thanks! Sefus PS Contamination isn’t an issue, my beers turn out great every time!

Response:

With kits, there is a fair bit of truth to getting what you pay for. Generally speaking, the less volume you buy (i.e. the more concentrated the product) the less concentrated your flavour will be. The Vino del Vida line is aimed at modest budgets and you’ll likely find a lot better results from from RJ Spagnols’ more expensive offerings. I’ve done many Brew King kits (it was all I could get for a while) and found that even with the most expensive kits they are a little too diluted if you top up with water after racking.  I haven’t done a Spagnols kit yet at home, but had a few of their Cellar Classics done at a U-brew in Vancouver in 1998-99 and never once thought that they were too watery.  Now that I have access to them again, I’m sure my next kit will be a Spagnols premium kit. I have done some where I filled the headspace with inert gas instead of adding water, and it seemed to work OK, but it is somewhat risky. I have also topped up with lower-priced commercial wine of the same variety, usually something fairly tannic since the kits are usually not at all tannic — this worked pretty well but can be expensive and won’t really show the nature of the kit as well (that can be a good thing or a not so good thing). I have also made some cheaper BK kits to 5 US gal instead of 6 — it was great with the Vintner’s Reserve Shiraz but a bit too concentrated with the VR Vieux Chateau du Roi (and you still have to worry about headspace unless you have a 5 US gal carboy).  And you also have to remember that you get less wine, so the $/bottle ends up pretty close to a premium kit done to full volume… Next time I do a kit, I will first buy a large supply of glass marbles that I can use to displace the headspace instead of topping up with gas or liquid.  Or depending on the variety, I may try bulking up the volume by adding grapes leftover from my fresh grape wine (currently in the freezer) — I have heard of several different people swearing by this.  It seems to me a good way to improve the aromatics and flavour of the kit, since kit wines are usually lacking in that regard, while also getting the basic predictability of a balanced wine (since the kits are usually manufactured to be well balanced in terms of acid, pH, sugar, etc).  But of course the downside is that you have to have the grapes to add :-) Good Luck, Richard – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I bottled a 6-gallon batch of Vino del Vida Shiraz on September 1, 2002.  I opened a bottle on October 1, 2002, and found it to be disappointing — watery, little body, weak taste. I’d like to start another kit, preferably cabernet sauvignon, and am asking for recommendations from others as to kits they’ve had good results with. Thanks, Bart

Response:

They are pretty reliable, but it takes time (2-3 weeks) before you get the stuff. If you order more than 1 kit a the time, place the order as 2 separate orders, otherwise they put both kits in one box, which it very heavy and and cost more to ship…

Response:

Sefus, The Vintner’s Reserve is the bottom of the line that BrewKing makes and I guess you get what you pay for. I have made several of their their Selection International and Selection Estate and have been pleased after aging them for at least 6 months. I do add a little extra tannin to the reds (1/4 tsp. per 5 gallons) and make the 6 gallon recipe into a 5 gallon batch.

Response:

Sefus, The Vintner’s Reserve is the bottom of the line that BrewKing makes and I guess you get what you pay for. I have made several of their their Selection International and Selection Estate and have been pleased after aging them for at least 6 months. I do add a little extra tannin to the reds (1/4 tsp. per 5 gallons) and make the 6 gallon recipe into a 5 gallon batch.

I use the cheap BK kits as well.  I use a hydrometer and add water only up to the MAX reading listed in the BK instructions.  Usually this is about 5.5 US gallons when finished. I too add a little acid to whites and tannin powder to reds.  The winws take a while to age before they are worth much- like 6 months minimum…. The Selection kits at ~$80 are well worth the money difference though.  The results rival about 90% of the $20 wines you buy "off the rack"!! All the Best, KB OKC, OK

Response:

I just a few days ago bottled a batch of Brew King sauvignon blanc, and it’s bottle aging in the cellar now.  My one local winemaking shop carries Brew King, but a pretty limited selection (however, he’s willing to order just about anything). I’ve thought about doing a 5-gal batch with a 6-gal kit, but another poster warned about the potential imbalance of sugar and acids (as compared to the intended levels), and suggested that "some acid management techniques are usually required". I haven’t pursued that any further yet. Bart

Bart, I don’t know where you live but my local Brew King retailer here in Virginia also has a limited stock of kits.  I have found that the retailers in Canada have a far better selection than most of their counterparts here.   Except for my first kit, all of the kits I have purchased from a retailer in Ontario.  Once you factor in the shipping and exchange rate on the Canadian Dollar, it’s cheaper for me to buy from Canada.  A typical BK Selection kit costs abount $72 delivered to my door.  Buying multiple kits in one order further reduces the shipping cost. Mike

Response:

Bart, Consider ordering from Leisure Time, their prices are pretty competitive. Their web site is: http://www.leisure-time.com/winekits.htm

Response:

The kit you bought is the second cheapest kit that RJ Spagnols makes.   What do you expect with 7 litres of concentrate?   Try something like the Cellar Classic series (15 litre concentrate) or the Cru Select Gold or Platinum (16 litre)    Check out www.rjspagnols.com K

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I bottled a 6-gallon batch of Vino del Vida Shiraz on September 1, 2002. I opened a bottle on October 1, 2002, and found it to be disappointing — watery, little body, weak taste. I’d like to start another kit, preferably cabernet sauvignon, and am asking for recommendations from others as to kits they’ve had good results with. Thanks, Bart

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just a few days ago bottled a batch of Brew King sauvignon blanc, and it’s bottle aging in the cellar now.  My one local winemaking shop carries Brew King, but a pretty limited selection (however, he’s willing to order just about anything). I’ve thought about doing a 5-gal batch with a 6-gal kit, but another poster warned about the potential imbalance of sugar and acids (as compared to the intended levels), and suggested that "some acid management techniques are usually required". I haven’t pursued that any further yet. Bart Bart, I don’t know where you live but my local Brew King retailer here in Virginia also has a limited stock of kits.  I have found that the retailers in Canada have a far better selection than most of their counterparts here.   Except for my first kit, all of the kits I have purchased from a retailer in Ontario.  Once you factor in the shipping and exchange rate on the Canadian Dollar, it’s cheaper for me to buy from Canada.  A typical BK Selection kit costs abount $72 delivered to my door.  Buying multiple kits in one order further reduces the shipping cost.

Where are you having these kits shipped to? I suppose it shouldn’t be too expensive to ship to Wisconsin, where I live.

Response:

I live in Baton Rouge, LA.  Winemaking supply shops are surprisingly scarce around here, and (as I mentioned earlier) don’t carry much inventory, so I’ve on occasion ordered from Homebrew Adventures in Charlotte, NC (good source).  I have a daughter who lives in Providence, RI, and when we visit her (a couple of times a year) I also shop at a local store there (the name escapes me now). Bart

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I just a few days ago bottled a batch of Brew King sauvignon blanc, and it’s bottle aging in the cellar now.  My one local winemaking shop carries Brew King, but a pretty limited selection (however, he’s willing to order just about anything). I’ve thought about doing a 5-gal batch with a 6-gal kit, but another poster warned about the potential imbalance of sugar and acids (as compared to the intended levels), and suggested that "some acid management techniques are usually required". I haven’t pursued that any further yet. Bart Bart, I don’t know where you live but my local Brew King retailer here in Virginia also has a limited stock of kits.  I have found that the retailers in Canada have a far better selection than most of their counterparts here.   Except for my first kit, all of the kits I have purchased from a retailer in Ontario.  Once you factor in the shipping and exchange rate on the Canadian Dollar, it’s cheaper for me to buy from Canada.  A typical BK Selection kit costs abount $72 delivered to my door.  Buying multiple kits in one order further reduces the shipping cost. Mike

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I bottled a 6-gallon batch of Vino del Vida Shiraz on September 1, 2002. I opened a bottle on October 1, 2002, and found it to be disappointing — watery, little body, weak taste.

Forget that you have that wine for at least another 6 months, even a year. You’ll be amazed at the difference. Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

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I just a few days ago bottled a batch of Brew King sauvignon blanc, and it’s bottle aging in the cellar now.  My one local winemaking shop carries Brew King, but a pretty limited selection (however, he’s willing to order just about anything). I’ve thought about doing a 5-gal batch with a 6-gal kit, but another poster warned about the potential imbalance of sugar and acids (as compared to the intended levels), and suggested that "some acid management techniques are usually required". I haven’t pursued that any further yet. Bart

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Bart, Wine kits need to age 3-6 months before they are drinkable, have some patience. I don’t have experience with the brand you used but have made several Brew King kits and after aging 3 months in the carboy and 6 months in the bottle they are pretty good. I have used their top of the line kits (Selection International ans Selection Estate).  If you want more body add a little less water (6 galon kit will ake 5 galons of stronger wine).

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Bart, Wine kits need to age 3-6 months before they are drinkable, have some patience. I don’t have experience with the brand you used but have made several Brew King kits and after aging 3 months in the carboy and 6 months in the bottle they are pretty good. I have used their top of the line kits (Selection International ans Selection Estate).  If you want more body add a little less water (6 galon kit will ake 5 galons of stronger wine).

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I bottled a 6-gallon batch of Vino del Vida Shiraz on September 1, 2002.  I opened a bottle on October 1, 2002, and found it to be disappointing — watery, little body, weak taste. I’d like to start another kit, preferably cabernet sauvignon, and am asking for recommendations from others as to kits they’ve had good results with. Thanks, Bart

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Question:

Why get rid of the original wine labels ?????? They add color & a sense of history to your wine amateur wine making efforts. I add my own "LARSON CELLARS 200?" label somewhere on the bottle. If you are determined to remove the original wine label—then try a bit of WD-40. Many of my bottles have about 5 or 6 previous "LARSON CELLARS" wine labels on them to indicate about a 12 year history with this particular bottle. I gave such a bottle to my "automobile mechanic" last week because he complained of getting a headache from commercial wines.This will be my 18th year of producing my own drinkable wine with the Sept – Oct harvest.

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hmmmm, very interesting!!!! that is a pretty neat thing! but the only problem for me:  my labels run and usually get soggy and fall off anyway when I wash them out after they’re empty.  Don’t have anything other than an inkjet printer to use for the time being.  But pretty cool way to track your use and history! Thanks for sharing that! Rick

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Why get rid of the original wine labels ?????? They add color & a sense of history to your wine amateur wine making efforts. I add my own "LARSON CELLARS 200?" label somewhere on the bottle. If you are determined to remove the original wine label—then try a bit of WD-40. Many of my bottles have about 5 or 6 previous "LARSON CELLARS" wine labels on them to indicate about a 12 year history with this particular bottle. I gave such a bottle to my "automobile mechanic" last week because he complained of getting a headache from commercial wines.This will be my 18th year of producing my own drinkable wine with the Sept – Oct harvest.

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but the only problem for me:  my labels run and usually get soggy and fall off anyway when I wash them out after they’re empty.  Don’t have anything other than an inkjet printer to use for the time being

I use an inkjet printer on Avery labels. I allow the ink to dry overnight, then spray them in the morning with a light coat of clear acrylic spray, available at most hardware stores or hobby shops. That evening, I give them another light spray of acrylic, allow them to dry overnight and apply the next morning. The acrylic prevents the labels from running in the ice bucket but they still soak right off in hot water. pli

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I’ve encountered similar tough plastic labels on Sutter Home bottles.  Those labels should be scraped aggressively to allow it to get to the underlying adhesive. BTW, as another member pointed out, the link should actually be www.de-solv-it.com. Bart

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sounds like great stuff! Recently I had a couple of bottles to clean and I used a razor blade (with holder of course). Seemed to work pretty good. One bottle, a blackberry merlot, was kind of "etched" with a plastic label all over, it took quite a while to clean it with the blade. I will look this stuff up next time I’m at Walmart and give it a try. Thanks for the tip. Henry

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Been using it for a year or so now, have mentioned it on the group a couple of times… My bottle is almost gone, need to buy some more. Glad to see someone else has found it as effective as I have! You’ve (de) SOLVED the riddle of the glue from hell! Rick

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a couple of really good sources for bottles (my brother is general manager of a local country club, plus I’m good friends with the boss waitress at another prominent restaurant), so I’ve gotten a bit picky. Some bottles I’d just as soon toss in the trash as try to clean off the label adhesive — e.g. Hardys’ Merlot. This morning, my wife noticed a bunch of those bottles in the trash and chastised me for being so wasteful.  I explained the difficulty in cleaning them, and (with a knowing smirk) she pointed out that she had a lot more experience in cleaning than I did, and those bottles would present no problem to her(!).  Without recounting all the ugly and humiliating details of what ensued, I’ll just admit that she was proved right, and pass on her secret: De-Solv-It Citrus Solution. Amazing stuff, just squirt it on the glue residue, wait a few seconds, and wipe it away.  More info at www.d-solv-it.com;  available at your local Wal-Mart. Bart

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I’ve got a couple of really good sources for bottles (my brother is general manager of a local country club, plus I’m good friends with the boss waitress at another prominent restaurant), so I’ve gotten a bit picky.  Some bottles I’d just as soon toss in the trash as try to clean off the label adhesive — e.g. Hardys’ Merlot. This morning, my wife noticed a bunch of those bottles in the trash and chastised me for being so wasteful.  I explained the difficulty in cleaning them, and (with a knowing smirk) she pointed out that she had a lot more experience in cleaning than I did, and those bottles would present no problem to her(!).  Without recounting all the ugly and humiliating details of what ensued, I’ll just admit that she was proved right, and pass on her secret: De-Solv-It Citrus Solution. Amazing stuff, just squirt it on the glue residue, wait a few seconds, and wipe it away.  More info at www.d-solv-it.com;  available at your local Wal-Mart. Bart

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Sounds like great stuff! Recently I had a couple of bottles to clean and I used a razor blade (with holder of course). Seemed to work pretty good. One bottle, a blackberry merlot, was kind of "etched" with a plastic label all over, it took quite a while to clean it with the blade. I will look this stuff up next time I’m at Walmart and give it a try. Thanks for the tip. Henry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve got a couple of really good sources for bottles (my brother is general manager of a local country club, plus I’m good friends with the boss waitress at another prominent restaurant), so I’ve gotten a bit picky. Some bottles I’d just as soon toss in the trash as try to clean off the label adhesive — e.g. Hardys’ Merlot. This morning, my wife noticed a bunch of those bottles in the trash and chastised me for being so wasteful.  I explained the difficulty in cleaning them, and (with a knowing smirk) she pointed out that she had a lot more experience in cleaning than I did, and those bottles would present no problem to her(!).  Without recounting all the ugly and humiliating details of what ensued, I’ll just admit that she was proved right, and pass on her secret: De-Solv-It Citrus Solution. Amazing stuff, just squirt it on the glue residue, wait a few seconds, and wipe it away.  More info at www.d-solv-it.com;  available at your local Wal-Mart. Bart

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