Question:

I decided to split my post into two posts since there are two different things going on here. My other brewing adventure this weekend had to do with the T’ej I put into the fermenter on 9/1/02. I racked it off the lees Sunday night (and there were lots of lees to rack off from) and put it into the secondary fermentor. It is still very cloudy but I decided to sample some anyway. To say that the flavor is rough as cob only scratches the surface. In spite of that there is an underlying flavor that my instincts from my days of making wine that I think will come out better once this stuff has a chance to properly age. I’m going to give this batch another 30 days or so in the secondary and watch it closely. I took a gravity reading and it came out to 1002. I cannot off the top of my head remember my OG (and my log is home and I’m writing this from my desk at work) but I did the calculations and the alcohol content is 8.5% by volume with an attenation of ~95% (IIRC). When I put the airlock on the secondary, about 20 minutes later I was rewarded with a lone bubble out of the airlock. Something tells me that fermentation in spite of the alcohol content has not finished. This batch bears watching…

Response:

Love to hear how it turns out. I’ve read quite a bit on T’ej but have never tasted it.

If I ever get a spare minute or so to myself I plan on writing the whole thing up on my website. I plan on having a running log of every batch of whatever I make on my website with what went well and what went wrong for others to learn from. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Manager Unix Engineering,MT Sinai NYU                     (212) 659-1468  

Response:

: : Love to hear how it turns out. I’ve read quite a bit on T’ej but have : never tasted it. : If I ever get a spare minute or so to myself I plan on writing the whole : thing up on my website. I plan on having a running log of every batch of : whatever I make on my website with what went well and what went wrong : for others to learn from. I’d be interested in reading about your experiences.  What’s your website’s URL? Stuart

Response:

If you email me the notes, I’d be happy to convert to a webpage for you. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Love to hear how it turns out. I’ve read quite a bit on T’ej but have never tasted it. If I ever get a spare minute or so to myself I plan on writing the whole thing up on my website. I plan on having a running log of every batch of whatever I make on my website with what went well and what went wrong for others to learn from. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Manager Unix Engineering,MT Sinai NYU                     (212) 659-1468

Response:

I’d be interested in reading about your experiences.  What’s your website’s URL?

Don’t laugh at it, but the interim page is at http://www.berghold.net/brewing/index.html This page is going to get shredded eventually in favor of some sort of dynamic content. I am working on a means to put up recipes of future brews along with a log of brews already done using the database that my site has connected to it. :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Dog event enthusiast, brewer of Belgian (style) Ales.  Happiness is having your contented dog at your side and a Belgian Ale in your glass.

Response:

Question:

I whipped up a batch of blackberry wine that has been aging in the secondary for about 3 months.  The Premier Cuve yeast fermented it way to dry for a country wine/drinking wine.  So I bought a 500ml bottle of wine conditioner/sweetner.  It’s really thick like syrup and there aren’t really any directions, so my question is: what is the best way to add the conditioner to the wine so that it mixes well? Thanks,   –Trint Homewood

I’m not sure what the conditioner/sweetener is…never heard of it…the way I’ve done it for my own wines is to stabilize the wine with potasium sorbate then sweeten with some of the juice that made the wine or make a simple syrup of corn sugar and water. 8 oz corn sugar to 8 oz of water…bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and stir in the sugar, return to heat and boil just until the liquid is crystal clear. Decant off 8-10 ozs of wine and put 4 ounces in a glass…add an 1/8 teaspoon of the simple syrup(oh, yeaah…allow the syrup to cool completly!!!…at a time until it’s as sweet as you like. Remember that you can make it sweeter, but you can not take it out, so if you err, err to the side of dry. After you know how much of the syrup you used, it’s a pretty easy math problem to figure out how much to add to your wine… quantity of wine(in ounces) X volume of syrup(in teaspoons) / 4 (volume of your sample)= volume of syrup to add to the wine. Hope this helps Luck Mike

Response:

I get the same vibes about RCW–they don’t seem very helpful to beginners, at all.  I can almost see their faces turn to a collective expression of shock and horror when they see the words "sweetener" and "conditioner" in a post.  Oh well, I’ve got an idea or two and I bet I can make it work.  I’ll post back with my results later if anybody is interested. –Trint Homewood

Response:

I don’t know the answer to your question as my wine making abilities are very limited but I do agree with you about rcw, they seem to answer only who they want. No much help for a beginner, you almost feel snubbed. The guys here are a lot more helpful and quite funny at times. Some of them actually roll around naked in LME and grains!! seems to be the wine God over at rcw. Hope this helps!! Louise:o) http://pages.infinit.net/weez1959/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks for the link, but I already posted to rcw, even before I posted here. There seems to be alot less activity in the winemaking newsgroup, and even when there is activity I find that group is generally not as helpful and courteous as the good folks here at rcb.  I’m also aware that there are a good number of homebrewers who also dabble in winemaking. So I don’t mean to be abrasive by posting off-topic in a beer NG, but I was sure somebody might help me out rather then just send me packing somewhere else.  Was I wrong?  I would think anybody with a little bit of winemaking experience could help, its just that this is my first batch for wine and I don’t want to ruin it.  So, can anybody help? I do appreciate it. Thanks,    –Trint Homewood

Response:

Hey Trint, You might also rec.crafts.meadmaking.  It isn’t as busy as this group, but I’ve noticed there are a few very informative folks in the group that also have a lot of winemaking experience.  I’m trying to make my first mead, at the moment, and have gotten a lot of good advice (nice guys, too).  That’s probably the greatest thing about this newsgroup.  For the most part, everyone is so willing to help each other out…  Good luck. kevin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Thanks for the link, but I already posted to rcw, even before I posted here. There seems to be alot less activity in the winemaking newsgroup, and even when there is activity I find that group is generally not as helpful and courteous as the good folks here at rcb.  I’m also aware that there are a good number of homebrewers who also dabble in winemaking. So I don’t mean to be abrasive by posting off-topic in a beer NG, but I was sure somebody might help me out rather then just send me packing somewhere else.  Was I wrong?  I would think anybody with a little bit of winemaking experience could help, its just that this is my first batch for wine and I don’t want to ruin it.  So, can anybody help? I do appreciate it. Thanks,    –Trint Homewood

Response:

Thanks for the link, but I already posted to rcw, even before I posted here. There seems to be alot less activity in the winemaking newsgroup, and even when there is activity I find that group is generally not as helpful and courteous as the good folks here at rcb.  I’m also aware that there are a good number of homebrewers who also dabble in winemaking.   So I don’t mean to be abrasive by posting off-topic in a beer NG, but I was sure somebody might help me out rather then just send me packing somewhere else.  Was I wrong?  I would think anybody with a little bit of winemaking experience could help, its just that this is my first batch for wine and I don’t want to ruin it.  So, can anybody help? I do appreciate it. Thanks,    –Trint Homewood

Response:

I whipped up a batch of blackberry wine that has been aging in the secondary for about 3 months.  The Premier Cuve yeast fermented it way to dry for a country wine/drinking wine.  So I bought a 500ml bottle of wine conditioner/sweetner.  It’s really thick like syrup and there aren’t really any directions, so my question is: what is the best way to add the conditioner to the wine so that it mixes well? Thanks,   –Trint Homewood

Response:

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&group=rec.crafts.w… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I whipped up a batch of blackberry wine that has been aging in the secondary for about 3 months.  The Premier Cuve yeast fermented it way to dry for a country wine/drinking wine.  So I bought a 500ml bottle of wine conditioner/sweetner.  It’s really thick like syrup and there aren’t really any directions, so my question is: what is the best way to add the conditioner to the wine so that it mixes well? Thanks,   –Trint Homewood

Response:

Question:

Howdy Group, Is there a site that I can use to print basic wine lables? I have webtv, (not a real computer) so I can’t download files, or use software. Also, has anyone attempted to make vinegar from scratch? Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve.

Response:

As to your label question go to  -myownlabels.com  or there is another company  called –  4th&vine ,they have nice computer , so i’m not sure if you can print them. both companies will let you customize and ship them to you- more customizing at my own labels than at 4th & vine, but both are good. hope I helped  -good luck. Drop a line -let me know how you make out with them.

Response:

Howdy Group, Is there a site that I can use to print basic wine lables? I have webtv, (not a real computer) so I can’t download files, or use software. Also, has anyone attempted to make vinegar from scratch? Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve.

On you vinegar question:  You can get vinegar cultures from most wine supply stores.  Some people keep a couple of vinegar cultures going in the kitchen. One for white and one for red.  Whenever they have wine left over they just add it to the cultures. BUT KEEP IT AWAY FROM YOUR WINE MAKING ROOM. Ray

Response:

Question:

I recently released my first Cynthiana vintage, 1999. It is a nice round wine blended with the advice of Paul Roberts in mind.  It has a very heavy and distinct nose, unlike a 1997 Horton’s Norton I tried. If anyone is interested I can send you a bottle.  $13.50 Anthony B. Valenzano www.valenzanowine.com

Response:

Hi Fred, I thought I’d add my 2 cents worth on this thread. The unique training system you mentioned is most likely the system Gene Cowart is using in his 40 acre vineyard in Purdy, Mo.  I’ve visited the vineyard and have to say he is doing something right.  He gets top $ for his norton from Augusta and Montelle Wineries. He converted his norton (and everything else except cab franc which is on VSP) from GDC to the single 6′ high cordon, with 16′ vine spacings and 8′ rows.  He likes the sun and air exposure this system affords him. His average crop is 6 tons an acre for norton (same or more than he was getting on GDC).  Obviously it allows mechanical harvesting, however, he said it also promotes better spray penetration into the canopies. Regarding a previous question in the thread, norton is a vitis aestivalis or sub-species, indigenous to North America.  I’ve heard through the grapevine but cannot confirm that Thomas Jefferson grew norton in his experimental vineyard in Monticello (nice marketing tidbit).  Horton makes a fine norton (blended with a Rhone or two) but I think Missouri nortons still reign king. Bruce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – As Clyde noted, GDC on a high trellis is generally standard for Norton in Missouri.  Even then they require strict attention to shoot positioning, etc. to keep fruit shading under control.  I hear that some are spacing 10 or more feet between vines also. On to my question.  I have heard of one grower in SW Missouri who has a different arrangement for Norton and other varieties to aid machine harvesting.  This grower spaces 16-20 feet between vines with narrower rows using a single curtain.  What I wonder about with that arrangement, is shoot vigor in the middle of those long cordons.  I have some difficulty with the middle shoots even with 4 ft. cordons (8 ft vine spacing), getting good vigor next to the trunk and at the ends of the cordons, but weak stoots in the middle.  Any ideas? Fred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Clyde-I grow grapes and make wine as a hobby in the Kansas City area.  I added 24 Norton vines to my vineyard last spring and most survived their first summer.  I was advised by Chaumette Vineyard, where I purchased the vines, to grow them on a wire about 3 feet above the ground, training the shoots upward. Hi Bill, I cannot imagine Norton growing from this low of a wire.  Norton tends to grow downward and is a *very* vigorous species.  The only trellis system that I have ever seen Norton on is the GDC, which usually puts the fruit between 5 and 6′ high.   Part of the idea is to give the vine as much room as possible.  The vines will become a tangled mess if they are not shoot positioned, which is mainly done to expose the fruit to the sun.  This is also the reason leaf pulling is done.  Appearantly the lack of sun exposure is responsible for the acid/pH paradox. Chaumette has their Chardonel on this low wire system, but I’ve yet to see any advantage in it, and in fact have heard tremendous complaints from people who have harvested from that vineyard. Charleville is the vineyard adjacent to Chaumette and is where we’ve been getting our Chardonel grapes.  Their fruit zone is about chest high, with another wire at 6 ft.  The vines still have a chance to grow upward (quite vinifera like) but the fruit is in a much more comfortable position to harvest. As for deer, both of the above vineyards have 8 ft fences surrounding them, which is quite effective for deer, but the turkey can still get in.  The only other way to truely handle pests like these is to grow so much that the amount they eat is insignificant. I know this doesn’t help you much, but it is what I have observed over the years.  Most of the remedies like soap and sound will work for awhile, but they always get use to it after a few years, and then move in.  kT seems to think the sound machines that have a wide variety of noises work well, but the cost are probably prohibitive for a hobby vineyard. I know the cost is prohibitive for *us* right now! I should toss out my usual disclaimer here: that my view of the vineyard is strickly from the cellar door. My experience and knowledge of grapegrowing would fit in a split.  I have also been greatly handycapped in further advancements in the vineyard by my marriage to the "Vineyard Goddess"! (kT never has cared for the title "Vineyard Manager":) Are you a part of the KC Cellarmasters?  They have quite a few members that have vineyards and the wine being produced there can be spectacular. latron clyde Using grow tubes I’ve got them up 3 feet and growing laterally 2 to 3 feet.  Same for the Chardonel I bought at the same time. My other grapes (Baco, Vidal, Leon Millot) are grown about on a double geneva trellis about six feet high.  How are others growing Norton and Chardonel?  I ask because I have a small deer problem.  Late this fall they are the leaves off of the two new varieties and I expect them to return next spring when the verticle shoots come out.  They cannot or do not do any damage to the vines grown high.  Do people in the know see any problem growing the Norton and Chardonel vines high like I do my other grapes? Thanks in advance for any advice about best ways to grow these grapes. Regards, Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas

Response:

Hi Folks, I just had my first taste of Norton/Cynthiana, in what I think is a blend from Horton VIneyards, in Virginia.  I was *really* impressed. If you ever get a chance ot try this wine (and if you’re a fan of dry reds in the Bordeaux style), I’d definitely recommend it.  The one I had was the 1994, and was listed at $13.99, I think.

 Hi Dave, Last night I opened the second bottle in a week of my 1999 Iowa grown Cynthiana (Norton).  It has a 25% Beaujolais blend and is absoloutely wonderful.  It has been in the bottle for about 5 months, I wasn’t expecting it to taste this good for a couple of years.  I took it to my wife’s dad’s house, and when we arrived, they were in the process of drinking a California Merlot (Beringer, not the greatest, I know).  I opened my bottle, and unanimously, the Cynthiana was favored over the Merlot! I believe this to be a big pat on the back for Midwestern wines!! I have also noticed that Norton gets that reaction from people becasue it is so different from any other grape out there.  It truly has a distinct flavor.  I think people find this to be "refreshing" or "new" so they tend to really like it.. cheers, Zinful — If all the world’s a stage, then where’s the audience sitting?

Response:

As Clyde noted, GDC on a high trellis is generally standard for Norton in Missouri.  Even then they require strict attention to shoot positioning, etc. to keep fruit shading under control.  I hear that some are spacing 10 or more feet between vines also. On to my question.  I have heard of one grower in SW Missouri who has a different arrangement for Norton and other varieties to aid machine harvesting.  This grower spaces 16-20 feet between vines with narrower rows using a single curtain.  What I wonder about with that arrangement, is shoot vigor in the middle of those long cordons.  I have some difficulty with the middle shoots even with 4 ft. cordons (8 ft vine spacing), getting good vigor next to the trunk and at the ends of the cordons, but weak stoots in the middle.  Any ideas? Fred – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Clyde-I grow grapes and make wine as a hobby in the Kansas City area.  I added 24 Norton vines to my vineyard last spring and most survived their first summer.  I was advised by Chaumette Vineyard, where I purchased the vines, to grow them on a wire about 3 feet above the ground, training the shoots upward. Hi Bill, I cannot imagine Norton growing from this low of a wire.  Norton tends to grow downward and is a *very* vigorous species.  The only trellis system that I have ever seen Norton on is the GDC, which usually puts the fruit between 5 and 6′ high.   Part of the idea is to give the vine as much room as possible.  The vines will become a tangled mess if they are not shoot positioned, which is mainly done to expose the fruit to the sun.  This is also the reason leaf pulling is done.  Appearantly the lack of sun exposure is responsible for the acid/pH paradox. Chaumette has their Chardonel on this low wire system, but I’ve yet to see any advantage in it, and in fact have heard tremendous complaints from people who have harvested from that vineyard. Charleville is the vineyard adjacent to Chaumette and is where we’ve been getting our Chardonel grapes.  Their fruit zone is about chest high, with another wire at 6 ft.  The vines still have a chance to grow upward (quite vinifera like) but the fruit is in a much more comfortable position to harvest. As for deer, both of the above vineyards have 8 ft fences surrounding them, which is quite effective for deer, but the turkey can still get in.  The only other way to truely handle pests like these is to grow so much that the amount they eat is insignificant. I know this doesn’t help you much, but it is what I have observed over the years.  Most of the remedies like soap and sound will work for awhile, but they always get use to it after a few years, and then move in.  kT seems to think the sound machines that have a wide variety of noises work well, but the cost are probably prohibitive for a hobby vineyard. I know the cost is prohibitive for *us* right now! I should toss out my usual disclaimer here: that my view of the vineyard is strickly from the cellar door. My experience and knowledge of grapegrowing would fit in a split.  I have also been greatly handycapped in further advancements in the vineyard by my marriage to the "Vineyard Goddess"! (kT never has cared for the title "Vineyard Manager":) Are you a part of the KC Cellarmasters?  They have quite a few members that have vineyards and the wine being produced there can be spectacular. latron clyde Using grow tubes I’ve got them up 3 feet and growing laterally 2 to 3 feet.  Same for the Chardonel I bought at the same time. My other grapes (Baco, Vidal, Leon Millot) are grown about on a double geneva trellis about six feet high.  How are others growing Norton and Chardonel?  I ask because I have a small deer problem.  Late this fall they are the leaves off of the two new varieties and I expect them to return next spring when the verticle shoots come out.  They cannot or do not do any damage to the vines grown high.  Do people in the know see any problem growing the Norton and Chardonel vines high like I do my other grapes? Thanks in advance for any advice about best ways to grow these grapes. Regards, Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas

Response:

I cannot imagine Norton growing from this low of a wire. Thanks Clyde.  That’s good enough for me.  I’m comfortable growing the vines high and the vineyard (40′ x  250′) will look much nicer with all growing the same. As for deer, both of the above vineyards have 8 ft fences surrounding

Worried about birds, I cover the entire vineyard with bird netting.  I use a high trellis with the netting drapec over and down to the ground.  It’s quite effective keeping all animals out of the vineyard but as soon as I harvest (August with my current grapes) I take the netting down, both to extend it’s life and I think it’s ugly.  When the Norton start producing I’ll have to leave it up longer since they ripen much later than my other grapes. Thanks again for the info. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas

Response:

Hi Dave, You’ve experienced a fine example of Norton, as well it should be: Dennis Horton was born and raised in Hermann, Missouri! We’ve had another kinship to them, as his wife is one of the only (other) female vineyard managers in the country. I’ve had my share of his wines and many of them are outstanding, including his Norton.  94 was an excellent vintage. I saw pics of the crop and he had an astounding 8 tons per acre hanging! Around here the typical yield is closer to half of that. Dennis will do a lecture at the drop of a hat: he spends most of his time these days traveling the country promoting his wines. BTW, his has the distinction of being the only Norton available in CA at this point. I believe the grape is indigenous, but it is not Labrusca (Ed?). This grape has been discussed in length here on the newsgroup and a search in deja.com should produce a cornucopia of info. Horton wines have been discussed on alt.food.wine, so you can also pick up on some more opinions there.  He also makes a decent Port style wine from Norton. You probably do not see this grape in your region because it is a very late ripening variety.  Here in Missouri it is not unusual to wait until October to bring it in.  Years ago (95 I think) I saw the TA at 9.0 on Oct 11.  It was a wet year and it never had the chance to fully ripen. Early on it was thought to not be capable of balanced parameters: but recent improvements in vineyard techniques like shoot positioning and leaf removal have made low TA’s possible with decent pH levels. In 99 we made Norton here with parameters like Brix 25, TA 7.2, pH 3.55. It is still in the barrel but may be bottled within the next month or so, which would be the first year anniversary of barrel aging. Vineyard and Winery Management did an extensive article on Norton a few years back. Some of the most noted Norton growers were in attendance for a Q/A session with the author.  I had the pleasure of being a fly on the wall for the meeting and it was quite interesting to see the various viewpoints of the grape. Someone in your area (your boss maybe) is bound to have a copy. VWM does not have on-line archives back that far (had to have been around 1996) but here is a related article I found on their site: http://www.vwm-online.com/Magazine/Archive/1999/Vol25_No3/HomeGrown.htm latron clyde I’d be interested to hear what anyone knows about the grape, or any other reactions to Horton’s Norton. Dave

**** Dave Breeden

Response:

Clyde-I grow grapes and make wine as a hobby in the Kansas City area.  I added 24 Norton vines to my vineyard last spring and most survived their first summer.  I was advised by Chaumette Vineyard, where I purchased the vines, to grow them on a wire about 3 feet above the ground, training the shoots upward.

Hi Bill, I cannot imagine Norton growing from this low of a wire.  Norton tends to grow downward and is a *very* vigorous species.  The only trellis system that I have ever seen Norton on is the GDC, which usually puts the fruit between 5 and 6′ high.   Part of the idea is to give the vine as much room as possible.  The vines will become a tangled mess if they are not shoot positioned, which is mainly done to expose the fruit to the sun.  This is also the reason leaf pulling is done.  Appearantly the lack of sun exposure is responsible for the acid/pH paradox. Chaumette has their Chardonel on this low wire system, but I’ve yet to see any advantage in it, and in fact have heard tremendous complaints from people who have harvested from that vineyard. Charleville is the vineyard adjacent to Chaumette and is where we’ve been getting our Chardonel grapes.  Their fruit zone is about chest high, with another wire at 6 ft.  The vines still have a chance to grow upward (quite vinifera like) but the fruit is in a much more comfortable position to harvest. As for deer, both of the above vineyards have 8 ft fences surrounding them, which is quite effective for deer, but the turkey can still get in.  The only other way to truely handle pests like these is to grow so much that the amount they eat is insignificant. I know this doesn’t help you much, but it is what I have observed over the years.  Most of the remedies like soap and sound will work for awhile, but they always get use to it after a few years, and then move in.  kT seems to think the sound machines that have a wide variety of noises work well, but the cost are probably prohibitive for a hobby vineyard. I know the cost is prohibitive for *us* right now! I should toss out my usual disclaimer here: that my view of the vineyard is strickly from the cellar door. My experience and knowledge of grapegrowing would fit in a split.  I have also been greatly handycapped in further advancements in the vineyard by my marriage to the "Vineyard Goddess"! (kT never has cared for the title "Vineyard Manager":) Are you a part of the KC Cellarmasters?  They have quite a few members that have vineyards and the wine being produced there can be spectacular. latron clyde – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Using grow tubes I’ve got them up 3 feet and growing laterally 2 to 3 feet.  Same for the Chardonel I bought at the same time. My other grapes (Baco, Vidal, Leon Millot) are grown about on a double geneva trellis about six feet high.  How are others growing Norton and Chardonel?  I ask because I have a small deer problem.  Late this fall they are the leaves off of the two new varieties and I expect them to return next spring when the verticle shoots come out.  They cannot or do not do any damage to the vines grown high.  Do people in the know see any problem growing the Norton and Chardonel vines high like I do my other grapes? Thanks in advance for any advice about best ways to grow these grapes. Regards, Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas

Response:

Hi Dave the chain-gang rip out my Cabernet Sauvignon and replant …….Norton is high on my list, although you have read "From this Hill, My Hand, Cynthiana’s Wine," here’s a site with more infomation http://www.chrysaliswine.com/norton2.htm                                  Bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I just had my first taste of Norton/Cynthiana, in what I think is a blend from Horton VIneyards, in Virginia.  I was *really* impressed. If you ever get a chance ot try this wine (and if you’re a fan of dry reds in the Bordeaux style), I’d definitely recommend it.  The one I had was the 1994, and was listed at $13.99, I think. What does anyone know about this grape?  Jancis Robinson, in _Wines, Grapes, and Vines_, passes it off as a French-American hybrid in a list of 10 or so that she says are grown in the Eastern U.S.  That’s all she says about it.  On the other hand, I just recently finished a book entitled, _From this Hill, My Hand, Cynthiana’s Wine," whose author, a Maryland winemaker, goes into dreat detail about how the grape is a native American grape.  In either case, it makes a tremendous wine, and is completely unlike any red native or hybrid grape I’ve had. I’d be interested to hear what anyone knows about the grape, or any other reactions to Horton’s Norton. Dave * Dave Breeden

Response:

Hi Dan        Sounds like "Nortons" won you over……and after I try his wine and IM still sober,I will write to Dennis Whats-his-name and tell him what I think and then Im gonna write a letter to the ex.Dr F.A.Lemosy and thank him for the grape that made it all happen…..Truly an American claim-to-fame!       I hoped I’ve attracted some attention,…..try reading this short article http://www.chrysaliswine.com/norton2.htm. thanks Dan.                                 Bob Lanzendoen – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi Folks, I just had my first taste of Norton/Cynthiana, in what I think is a blend from Horton VIneyards, in Virginia. Dennis Horton isn’t the first Virginia wine maker to produce wine from Norton grapes. In fact Monticello Vineyards was the label on many bottles of Norton-based claret that took gold medals in European competitions in the late 19th century. For a while many thought the Norton had been lost as a result of prohibition, but it has been kept alive in Missouri (I believe). Norton wanted to try to recapture that old prize-winning character, and he has, I believe, succeeded! You are right, Horton Norton is unlike any other native or hybrid-based wine– no "foxiness," full body, deep color, firm structure….yum! It’s good wine. You should write to Dennis Norton and tell him you like it! — Dan Mouer "Pioneer" http://saturn.vcu.edu/~dmouer/homepage.htm

Response:

Hi Folks, I just had my first taste of Norton/Cynthiana, in what I think is a blend from Horton VIneyards, in Virginia.

Dennis Horton isn’t the first Virginia wine maker to produce wine from Norton grapes. In fact Monticello Vineyards was the label on many bottles of Norton-based claret that took gold medals in European competitions in the late 19th century. For a while many thought the Norton had been lost as a result of prohibition, but it has been kept alive in Missouri (I believe). Norton wanted to try to recapture that old prize-winning character, and he has, I believe, succeeded! You are right, Horton Norton is unlike any other native or hybrid-based wine– no "foxiness," full body, deep color, firm structure….yum! It’s good wine. You should write to Dennis Norton and tell him you like it! — Dan Mouer "Pioneer" http://saturn.vcu.edu/~dmouer/homepage.htm

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Early on it was thought to not be capable of balanced parameters: but recent improvements in vineyard techniques like shoot positioning and leaf removal have made low TA’s possible with decent pH levels. In 99 we made Norton here with parameters like Brix 25, TA 7.2, pH 3.55. Clyde-I grow grapes and make wine as a hobby in the Kansas City area.  I added 24 Norton vines to my vineyard last spring and most survived their first summer.  I was advised by Chaumette Vineyard, where I purchased the vines, to grow them on a wire about 3 feet above the ground, training the shoots upward.  Using grow tubes I’ve got them up 3 feet and growing laterally 2 to 3 feet.  Same for the Chardonel I bought at the same time. My other grapes (Baco, Vidal, Leon Millot) are grown about on a double geneva trellis about six feet high.  How are others growing Norton and Chardonel?  I ask because I have a small deer problem.  Late this fall they are the leaves off of the two new varieties and I expect them to return next spring when the verticle shoots come out.  They cannot or do not do any damage to the vines grown high.  Do people in the know see any problem growing the Norton and Chardonel vines high like I do my other grapes? Thanks in advance for any advice about best ways to grow these grapes. Regards, Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas

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Hi Folks, I just had my first taste of Norton/Cynthiana, in what I think is a blend from Horton VIneyards, in Virginia.  I was *really* impressed. If you ever get a chance ot try this wine (and if you’re a fan of dry reds in the Bordeaux style), I’d definitely recommend it.  The one I had was the 1994, and was listed at $13.99, I think. What does anyone know about this grape?  Jancis Robinson, in _Wines, Grapes, and Vines_, passes it off as a French-American hybrid in a list of 10 or so that she says are grown in the Eastern U.S.  That’s all she says about it.  On the other hand, I just recently finished a book entitled, _From this Hill, My Hand, Cynthiana’s Wine," whose author, a Maryland winemaker, goes into dreat detail about how the grape is a native American grape.  In either case, it makes a tremendous wine, and is completely unlike any red native or hybrid grape I’ve had. I’d be interested to hear what anyone knows about the grape, or any other reactions to Horton’s Norton. Dave

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Question:

What is the magic point that shows the end of Primary fermentation and why? I’ve seen a lot a recipe’s say about 1.040. Can’t I just use a carboy without the airlock for a week? Britt

Hello Britt, There is no magic end point of fermentation, unless you are fermenting to dryness.  If going for dryness, you will want to go below 1.00 and when the cap if using raw materials, sinks or stops rising.  you can transfer before that point, and finish fermentation in your secondary, I don’t like to rush anything.  Depending on what style of wine you are going for, then the end point of fermentation becomes more of an art. If you are going for a sweet wine, you definitely don’t want it fermented to dryness.  If you are going for a semi-dry or semi-sweet, you don’t want it fermented to dryness.  that is when that 1.040 comes into play.  You can also ferment to dryness which is easier, then back sweeten your wine with all the proper precautions to avoid a botttle fermentation.     so as you can see, you have many options, that is the beauty of making wine, and allows for individuality and difference of style amongst wine makers.  I would say your best bet is to fifure out exactly what you want to do, then ask the NG what would be the best route to achieve your desired goals.  You will either get a bunch of the same answer, or you will get a few different opinions (none of them wrong, just different)then decide which formula you feel most comfortable with. cheers, Zinful — If all the world’s a stage, then where’s the audience sitting? Before you buy.

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Why would you want to do that?? Airlocks are a cheap way of protecting contamination of your wine. If you do not want to use an airlock just put a rubber balloon over the carboy and watch it grow. Depends on how dry you want your wine and how much alcohol you want from the fermentation. I like to get it below 1.000 and then add sugar to taste before I bottle. But then that’s only one man’s opinion. Tony

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What is the magic point that shows the end of Primary fermentation and why? I’ve seen a lot a recipe’s say about 1.040. Can’t I just use a carboy without the airlock for a week? Britt

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I was wondering why the primary fermentor is usually a bucket and why couldn’t you just start it in a carboy without the airlock for about a week

Primary fermentations are sometimes rather violent. If the carboy is too full, the wine will erupt. I recently transferred some pear wine before primary was done. The oxygen picked up during the transfer to the carboy revived the oxygen and I found a gallon on the table and floor the next morning. My main question was, what point tells you that your done with Primary fermentation?  

I usually wait 4-7 days, until fermentation has subsided to gentle bubbles; the pear wine was the first to fool me like that. Some who make wine from fruit rather than concentrate wait until the cap doesn’t rise after the regular stirring. Others say wait until the SG is below 1.00. It’s more of an art than a science, I believe. pli

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What is the magic point that shows the end of Primary fermentation and why? I’ve seen a lot a recipe’s say about 1.040. Can’t I just use a carboy without the airlock for a week? Britt

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Maybe I didn’t state the clearly. As you can tell, I’m new at this. I was wondering why the primary fermentor is usually a bucket and why couldn’t you just start it in a carboy without the airlock for about a week and then attach the airlock when the primary SG is reached? My main question was, what point tells you that your done with Primary fermentation?  And why? Thanks,

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Why would you want to do that?? Airlocks are a cheap way of protecting contamination of your wine. If you do not want to use an airlock just put a rubber balloon over the carboy and watch it grow. Depends on how dry you want your wine and how much alcohol you want from the fermentation. I like to get it below 1.000 and then add sugar to taste before I bottle. But then that’s only one man’s opinion. Tony What is the magic point that shows the end of Primary fermentation and why? I’ve seen a lot a recipe’s say about 1.040. Can’t I just use a carboy without the airlock for a week? Britt

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Maybe I didn’t state the clearly. As you can tell, I’m new at this. I was wondering why the primary fermentor is usually a bucket and why couldn’t you just start it in a carboy without the airlock for about a week and then attach the airlock when the primary SG is reached?

Evidently you missed the posts about explosions of purple goop all over the living room (or wherever).  Wide mouth containers are a lot safer for the initial stages of the fermentation, because it can get pretty violent. Don’t fill ‘em too full, either. Tom S

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What is the magic point that shows the end of Primary fermentation and why? I’ve seen a lot a recipe’s say about 1.040. Can’t I just use a carboy without the airlock for a week?

Most others have made the big points, the primary fermentation can be intense.  You wouldn’t want to use a carboy in any case with pulp in the wine.  As the CO2 is released it tends to make the pulp "float" high in the wine, you see that with the open topped vessels.  The bottleneck of the carboy causes the fruit to compact as it rises, this makes a better gas seal. The better gas seal means more pressure under the pulp.  The pulp I have had the cap on open top primary fermenters blowout.  I use stainless steel pots to ferment in, one bannana batch blew the lid off.  (I had too much must in the carboy). There is no "sanctioned" point to transfer the must to the secondary fermenter.  I have transferred at anywhere between 0.990 and 1.08.  I usually ferment 5-7 days in the primary. You can ferment juice wines in the carboy, depending upon the yeast you use. I have several wines currently fermenting that I started in the secondary. If you use a fast fermenting yeast you need to leave more  headspace than with a slow fermenter.  Foam can be a problem too.  It just makes a mess though, doesn’t make a blow out. Dewey

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Question:

Hello again! First, thanks to all who replied to my earlier post regarding mailing wine. The ideas were most welcome. Now for a harder question:  does anyone know how or has tried to make retsina, very common (or originated) in Greece? Retsina is a white wine with a very large flavour that tastes like pine. When I was in Greece years ago, someone told me that the unique taste of retsina is due to the fact that it is aged in pine barrels. Thus, it has a rather Pine-Sol or turpentine flavour (but it is great with lamb souvlaki !!).  However, others have said this is wrong but have no ideas how it is made. I want to know how to make it using a home white wine kit, ideally. Some ideas were to:  put some nice fresh pine into the primary, or to suspend some pine tar in cheesecloth in the primary. But these seem rather crude. Thanking you all in advance for any help. Nan — Remove *nospam* in reply address

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<oes anyone know how or has tried to make retsina, very common (or originated) in Greece? I do not know how to make it, but I believe retsina is the alcohol that is made from the residual  pomace after pressing the grapes. Michael <— likes the newsgroup

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Now for a harder question:  does anyone know how or has tried to make retsina, very common (or originated) in Greece? Retsina is a white wine with a very large flavour that tastes like pine.

ftp://ftp.cam.org/users/malak/wine/retsina.zip Winemaking linx & FTP, rec.crafts.winemaking FAQ, 1st Baptist Scout Troop (Mtl Que Can), firestarter FAQ, Scouting FTP & Ask-A-Scout(er), Star Trek linx & FTP, Help Stop Spam, Zee Svedish Cheff, Summer Camp selection

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I do not know how to make it, but I believe retsina is the alcohol that is made from the residual  pomace after pressing the grapes.

That’s grappa — you make the wine with the pomace then distill it. Michael <— likes the newsgroup

Welcome! Winemaking linx & FTP, rec.crafts.winemaking FAQ, 1st Baptist Scout Troop (Mtl Que Can), firestarter FAQ, Scouting FTP & Ask-A-Scout(er), Star Trek linx & FTP, Help Stop Spam, Zee Svedish Cheff, Summer Camp selection

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Now for a harder question:  does anyone know how or has tried to make retsina, very common (or originated) in Greece? Retsina is a white wine with a very large flavour that tastes like pine.

Ooopah!  It’s an ancient recipe…I understood that pine resin is added…originally as a presevative because of the Greek heat. Sorry, I don’t know a recipe…but here are some ideas… Your "pine tar in cheesecloth" idea sounds best to me. Hardened pine resin can be purchased as soldering flux in small blocks, and melted with heat, or softened/disolved with alcohol. I don’t know if that’s "food grade" or safe resin (or "roson"). This is the common "non-corrosive" soldering flux used in electronics. Or go to a forest and find a wounded tree, sugar pine weeps alot of resin…and check the fresh pinecones. I doubt if all pine resins are equal, childhood memories say some might be too bitter with a long aftertaste, so beware.   Good luck, let us know! –Doug   – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -When I was in Greece years ago, someone told me that the unique taste of retsina is due to the fact that it is aged in pine barrels. Thus, it has a rather Pine-Sol or turpentine flavour (but it is great with lamb souvlaki !!).  However, others have said this is wrong but have no ideas how it is made. I want to know how to make it using a home white wine kit, ideally. Some ideas were to:  put some nice fresh pine into the primary, or to suspend some pine tar in cheesecloth in the primary. But these seem rather crude.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – HELLENIC WINES. The vine has ben cultivated by the Greeks since time immemorial and their efforts have praised in prose and poetry by all the ancient poets. The Greeks had a word for it," and the word was "aromatics" Apparently the natural flavor of the grape itself was to bland for their sophisticated palat, so the wines were stored in " amphorae " (large jars) pitched with tar. This imparted a resinous flavor of the wine, and, as if this were not enough, bags containing spices, such as peppers, clves, and aromatic gum, were suspendes in the wine to insure its "preservation" and improved flavor. Present -day Greeks still prefer a resinated to a natural wine, a taste which must be acquired, as the harsh, pungent turpentine bouquet and flavor shocks the unaccustomed palate. These wines are available in United States. They are labled "RETSINA" Restinated red wine is called "Kokinelli" Of course, all Greek wine is not resinated. There are some dry light red and white wines such as those from Attika,Demestica,Hymettus,Martinia, Morea,Rhoditys and Tatoi, where the royal vineyards are located, and one particular sweet red wine from patras called "Mavrodaphne"    PD from the Grossman’s Guide book

Previous postings have identified the pine from which the resin is collected as the Allepo Pine, pinus halepensis. I just noticed a picture of one in this months Sunset Magazine in an article on permanent christmas trees. Doesn’t appear to grow in the frozen steppe lands of Canada though…

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HELLENIC WINES. The vine has ben cultivated by the Greeks since time immemorial and their efforts have praised in prose and poetry by all the ancient poets. The Greeks had a word for it," and the word was "aromatics" Apparently the natural flavor of the grape itself was to bland for their sophisticated palat, so the wines were stored in " amphorae " (large jars) pitched with tar. This imparted a resinous flavor of the wine, and, as if this were not enough, bags containing spices, such as peppers, clves, and aromatic gum, were suspendes in the wine to insure its "preservation" and improved flavor. Present -day Greeks still prefer a resinated to a natural wine, a taste which must be acquired, as the harsh, pungent turpentine bouquet and flavor shocks the unaccustomed palate. These wines are available in United States. They are labled "RETSINA" Restinated red wine is called "Kokinelli" Of course, all Greek wine is not resinated. There are some dry light red and white wines such as those from Attika,Demestica,Hymettus,Martinia, Morea,Rhoditys and Tatoi, where the royal vineyards are located, and one particular sweet red wine from patras called "Mavrodaphne"    PD from the Grossman’s Guide book              

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Now for a harder question:  does anyone know how or has tried to make retsina, very common (or originated) in Greece? Retsina is a white wine with a very large flavour that tastes like pine. I doubt if all pine resins are equal, childhood memories say some might be too bitter with a long aftertaste, so beware.   Good luck, let us know! –Doug  

One possibility is to use a spruce essence sold in beer brewing shops for brewing spruce beer. Rob Vermeulen

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Hardened pine resin can be purchased as soldering flux in small blocks, and melted with heat, or softened/disolved with alcohol.

Find the tree!  Or make real good and sure you read the list of ingredients on the soldering flux.  It also contains a lot of obnoxious "other stuff" such as Ammonium Chloride. OTOH, *Violinists* bow rosin *might* be pure.

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Question:

I don’t think that’s true.  At least, in 10 years I’ve never had a fermentation start up on me, and I prefer juicy fruits (we’re working on several gallons of pomegranate liqueur right now).  What’s the normal maximum proof (or percent if you prefer) that yeasts can produce more alcohol in?  If you’re starting with 80 proof vodka and you’re diluting down to 25 proof (2:1), isn’t that still too rich for yeasts to be productive?

I don’t think 25 proof is enough to prevent fermentation. I believe that 25 proof is about 12.5% ABV and wine yeasts can survive at that level of alcohol. I hear that some can be pushed above 18% ABV with proper care and feeding. Andy

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I don’t think 25 proof is enough to prevent fermentation. I believe that 25 proof is about 12.5% ABV and wine yeasts can survive at that level of alcohol. I hear that some can be pushed above 18% ABV with proper care and feeding.

Hm.  Of course, we’re not talking about cultivated yeasts given proper care and feeding, but I do accept that it’s possible.  Anyone know about wild yeasts, or is there just so much regional variation that there’s no sense in trying to generalize?  That is, though it’s possible, how likely is it?  have I just been lucky (that I haven’t had unexpected wild fermentations start up)? Gunther Anderson

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Anderson whisper something along the lines of… You might find that liqueurs diluted with something (e.g. sparkling water, ginger ale) still preserve considerable flavor, but can be consumed more like wine.  Well, except that they’re a _lot_ sweeter.

Depends on the dilution- I make my wine quite sweet. I don’t think that’s true.  At least, in 10 years I’ve never had a fermentation start up on me, and I prefer juicy fruits (we’re working on several gallons of pomegranate liqueur right now

It is indeed true.  I’ve had raspberry and mandarin liqueurs start fermenting on me.  Silly Dr. George put a small bottle of mandarin liqueur in his mother’s Christmas stocking, and the entire family was amazed at the mess created when she attempted to open it for the first sip. Darren S. A. George The Mad Alchemist http://www.mad-alchemy.com/heraldry

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Hi, Don’t know if you’ve gotten the info on this or not I’ve been making Blueberry for about 7 years. The berries I use are picked wild from Northern Ontario. Not sure about what your berries taste like but I used store bought hydroponic 1 time and the taste was blahhhhhh. You should be able to pick up a small winemaker’s hanbook wherever wine making supplies are sold, with the required recipe for Bluberry wine. The wine is a nice dark rich full bodied wine……you can add a little sweetener if you wish depending on what kind of wine you prefer. You can also add a bit of grape concentrate to boost the taste & body of the finshed product. Good luck, BB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, I’ve never made wine before, but have made liquor for a long time.  (Fruit liqour) and they have always been such a big hit.  My absolute favorite times are when we have a number of people at our house and I pass around my homemade liqour, usually people are very iffy, but once they try it, they are just stunned and want more… always makes me feel so good about this and that’s why I keep making more year after year.  My problem though, even though you can drink it a few months later, I actually prefer to keep it unopened for a few years or so.  I think longer it sits and does ‘its thing’, the better the flavour. Anyhow, I’m brand new to wine making.  Always have wanted to make wine but was always intimidated.  I do not know if blueberry can be used for winemaking. But if it can… (I’ve got lots of it, all organic and in the freezer)… any help?  I’m real new to this and will do what I can to see this is successful! Thanks for any help you can provide on this topic.  I thoroughly enjoy this NG.  It’s highly informative and very inspiring.  You are all great motivators for someone like myself.  :-) HL

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve never made wine before, but have made liquor for a long time.  (Fruit liqour) and they have always been such a big hit.  My absolute favorite times are when we have a number of people at our house and I pass around my homemade liqour, usually people are very iffy, but once they try it, they are just stunned and want more… always makes me feel so good about this and that’s why I keep making more year after year.  My problem though, even though you can drink it a few months later, I actually prefer to keep it unopened for a few years or so.  I think longer it sits and does ‘its thing’, the better the flavour.   How are you making this?  You got recipes?

Fruit liquours are usually made by taking some kind of spirits (vodka, gin, everclear) and steeping it with fruit and sugar for some time.  There are a number of recipes for various liquours on the web.  I’m sure you can find some if you search on "making liqours" or something like that. —-Greg http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/wine/

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whisper something along the lines of… Fruit liquours are usually made by taking some kind of spirits (vodka, gin, everclear) and steeping it with fruit and sugar for some time.  There are a number of recipes for various liquours on the web.  I’m sure you can find some if you search on "making liqours" or something like that.

I take a quart (or litre) mason jar, fill it with quartered crabapples (Dolgoys are my favourite, although others work), add 1 cup of sugar (lots of room between the quarters) and 3/4 cup vodka.  Ocassionally I will toss in a stick of cinnamon.  Place on its side (make sure you’ve put the lid on -tight-), rotate 90 degrees every day so that the sugar gets mixed and all crabapples get equally soaked.  After 2 weeks, filter out the apples. I tend to enjoy the wines more, as they are less potent (both in alcohol and flavour), and can be drunk by the glassful rather than a slowly-sipped shot. They also disappear faster once opened, and so you rarely lose half a bottle of wine to oxidation. Other fruit can certainly be used, but one must be careful with sterility, since raspberries, mandarins, etc, contain enough juice to dilute the alcohol to the point where fermentation will occur. Darren S. A. George The Mad Alchemist http://www.mad-alchemy.com/heraldry

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I’ve never made wine before, but have made liquor for a long time.  (Fruit liqour) and they have always been such a big hit.  My absolute favorite times are when we have a number of people at our house and I pass around my homemade liqour, usually people are very iffy, but once they try it, they are just stunned and want more… always makes me feel so good about this and that’s why I keep making more year after year.  My problem though, even though you can drink it a few months later, I actually prefer to keep it unopened for a few years or so.  I think longer it sits and does ‘its thing’, the better the flavour.

I’ve got a web site on home-made liqueurs, and if I could prevail upon you to mail me your recipe, I’d be glad to put it on my site.  If not, I certainly understand, but I have only occasionally succeeded in making a good blueberry liqueur, and I’d love another recipe to try.  I will of course credit you for the recipe on the site. http://www.guntheranderson.com/liqueurs.htm Thanks either way, Gunther Anderson

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Fruit liquours are usually made by taking some kind of spirits (vodka, gin, everclear) and steeping it with fruit and sugar for some time.  There are a number of recipes for various liquours on the web.  I’m sure you can find some if you search on "making liqours" or something like that.

I don’t mean to nitpick, but you’ll probably do better if you search on "making liqueurs" rather than "liquors".  Liquors is, of course, the generic term for a wide variety of hard alcohols.  Liqueurs is the term for steeped, flavored hard alcohol. I’ve got a site on the subject of home-made liqueurs which has some recipes, though my blueberry recipe has been inconsistent at best: http://www.guntheranderson.com/liqueurs.htm And rec.food.drink might have more people knowledgable.  I say "might" because there don’t seem to be too many. Gunther Anderson

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I tend to enjoy the wines more, as they are less potent (both in alcohol and flavour), and can be drunk by the glassful rather than a slowly-sipped shot. They also disappear faster once opened, and so you rarely lose half a bottle of wine to oxidation.

I’ve taken to using smaller bottles, but I still lose lots to oxidation. You might find that liqueurs diluted with something (e.g. sparkling water, ginger ale) still preserve considerable flavor, but can be consumed more like wine.  Well, except that they’re a _lot_ sweeter. Other fruit can certainly be used, but one must be careful with sterility, since raspberries, mandarins, etc, contain enough juice to dilute the alcohol to the point where fermentation will occur.

I don’t think that’s true.  At least, in 10 years I’ve never had a fermentation start up on me, and I prefer juicy fruits (we’re working on several gallons of pomegranate liqueur right now).  What’s the normal maximum proof (or percent if you prefer) that yeasts can produce more alcohol in?  If you’re starting with 80 proof vodka and you’re diluting down to 25 proof (2:1), isn’t that still too rich for yeasts to be productive? Gunther Anderson

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Fruit liquours are usually made by taking some kind of spirits (vodka, gin, everclear) and steeping it with fruit and sugar for some time.  There are a number of recipes for various liquours on the web.  I’m sure you can find some if you search on "making liqours" or something like that. I don’t mean to nitpick, but you’ll probably do better if you search on "making liqueurs" rather than "liquors".  Liquors is, of course, the generic term for a wide variety of hard alcohols.  Liqueurs is the term for steeped, flavored hard alcohol. I’ve got a site on the subject of home-made liqueurs which has some recipes, though my blueberry recipe has been inconsistent at best: http://www.guntheranderson.com/liqueurs.htm And rec.food.drink might have more people knowledgable.  I say "might" because there don’t seem to be too many. Gunther Anderson

Thanks again.  Probably why I never happened upon your web site before! —-Greg http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/wine/

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ve never made wine before, but have made liquor for a long time.  (Fruit liqour) and they have always been such a big hit.  My absolute favorite times are when we have a number of people at our house and I pass around my homemade liqour, usually people are very iffy, but once they try it, they are just stunned and want more… always makes me feel so good about this and that’s why I keep making more year after year.  My problem though, even though you can drink it a few months later, I actually prefer to keep it unopened for a few years or so.  I think longer it sits and does ‘its thing’, the better the flavour. I’ve got a web site on home-made liqueurs, and if I could prevail upon you to mail me your recipe, I’d be glad to put it on my site.  If not, I certainly understand, but I have only occasionally succeeded in making a good blueberry liqueur, and I’d love another recipe to try.  I will of course credit you for the recipe on the site. http://www.guntheranderson.com/liqueurs.htm Thanks either way, Gunther Anderson

Gunther!  Thanks for your web site!  I have been looking for a good site, and now I’ve found yours. —-Greg http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/grcook/wine/

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Agreed!  I am now just devling into this new and exciting world… Thanks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – http://www.guntheranderson.com/liqueurs.htm Thanks either way, Gunther Anderson Gunther!  Thanks for your web site!  I have been looking for a good site, and now I’ve found yours.

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I’ve never made wine before, but have made liquor for a long time.  (Fruit liqour) and they have always been such a big hit.  My absolute favorite times are when we have a number of people at our house and I pass around my homemade liqour, usually people are very iffy, but once they try it, they are just stunned and want more… always makes me feel so good about this and that’s why I keep making more year after year.  My problem though, even though you can drink it a few months later, I actually prefer to keep it unopened for a few years or so.  I think longer it sits and does ‘its thing’, the better the flavour.  

How are you making this?  You got recipes? — | http://www.MADwand.org | Get Best-Selling Educational Software…JumpStart, | Blaster, Disney, and more…Free, or nearly!

Response:

Hello, I’ve never made wine before, but have made liquor for a long time.  (Fruit liqour) and they have always been such a big hit.  My absolute favorite times are when we have a number of people at our house and I pass around my homemade liqour, usually people are very iffy, but once they try it, they are just stunned and want more… always makes me feel so good about this and that’s why I keep making more year after year.  My problem though, even though you can drink it a few months later, I actually prefer to keep it unopened for a few years or so.  I think longer it sits and does ‘its thing’, the better the flavour.   Anyhow, I’m brand new to wine making.  Always have wanted to make wine but was always intimidated.  I do not know if blueberry can be used for winemaking. But if it can… (I’ve got lots of it, all organic and in the freezer)… any help?  I’m real new to this and will do what I can to see this is successful! Thanks for any help you can provide on this topic.  I thoroughly enjoy this NG.  It’s highly informative and very inspiring.  You are all great motivators for someone like myself.  :-) HL

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For sure blueberries can be made into wine; around four pounds of fruit per gallon, plus about two pounds of sugar should see you ok, but check out http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/ for recipes, – he’s got them all. Dave

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello, I’ve never made wine before, but have made liquor for a long time.  (Fruit liqour) and they have always been such a big hit.  My absolute favorite times are when we have a number of people at our house and I pass around my homemade liqour, usually people are very iffy, but once they try it, they are just stunned and want more… always makes me feel so good about this and that’s why I keep making more year after year.  My problem though, even though you can drink it a few months later, I actually prefer to keep it unopened for a few years or so.  I think longer it sits and does ‘its thing’, the better the flavour. Anyhow, I’m brand new to wine making.  Always have wanted to make wine but was always intimidated.  I do not know if blueberry can be used for winemaking. But if it can… (I’ve got lots of it, all organic and in the freezer)… any help?  I’m real new to this and will do what I can to see this is successful! Thanks for any help you can provide on this topic.  I thoroughly enjoy this NG.  It’s highly informative and very inspiring.  You are all great motivators for someone like myself.  :-) HL

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does any one know of a good Blueberry wine recipe? curious in canada.

This recipe is for 1 imperial gallon.  I normally multiply the ingredients by 6 so that I’ll have 6 gallons in my primary fermentor. With blueberry wine, you will lose a lot during the rackings because of pulp and seeds, so I make a little extra to cover it off. 2 lbs of blueberries 4 cups of sugar 2 tsp tartaric acid (for a different taste, use acid blend, I have had good success with both) 1 can frozen concentrated apple juice 1/4 tsp grape tannin 1/2 tsp pectin enzyme 1 tsp yeast nutient 1/2 tsp yeast energizer campden tablets Lavlin 1116 or equivalent yeast Water Instructions. Crush Berries in a plastic pail (I prefer using a Braun Hand Blender) and add 1/2 gallon of water.  Stir in Pectin Enzyme and 1 crushed campden tablet.  Let sit for a couple of days in a cool place. Strain out the juice from the pulp and discard the pulp.  I have found that a cheese cloth lined colander works OK with a potato masher to press the pulp into the cheese cloth.  However, I have not found a method that is perfect.  The pulp removal us usually time consuming and messy.  If you come up with a better method, let me know.  Note that you will not be able to remove any of the seeds at this point… they are like purple sand and will fall out to the bottom of you fermentor after a few rackings. Now add sugar, acid, nutient, energizer, tannin, and apple juice to the blueberry must and top up to one gallon.  Stir vigorously.  Check the initial gravity at this point… it should be in the range from 1.080 to 1.100.  If the gravity is higher than this, well bonus!   I think that the last time I did a 23 litre batch, I added the sugar last, and just added enough sugar to bring the gravity up to 1.090. Blueberry tends to be a flavourful wine so it can tolerate high alcohol levels. Add the yeast as per the instructions and let sit while primary fermentation  starts… cover and add the usual airlock, as you would with any primary ferment. When the gravity has fallen below 1.010, rack to a carboy and let sit for 3-4 weeks.  Check the gravity… if it is below 1.000, you can rack again and add another crushed campten tablet (one per gallon of wine).  Let age for a couple of months (or more), and rack, suphite/sorbate, sweeten, bottle, etc as you normally would.  I prefer a dry blueberry, so I don’t add any sugar.  This wine will take well to aging; my first batch was barely drinkable in 3 months but smoothed out rather nicely in 9 months. I got this recipe several years ago from Ken Reddy at Brewery Lane and have made several successful batches. Des Power PS:  I believe that Don Buchan also has a recipe on his archive that uses raisins.  I haven’t tried that one yet. Look in ftp://ftp.cam.org/users/malak/wine/

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does any one know of a good Blueberry wine recipe?

ftp://ftp.cam.org/users/malak/wine/blueberr.zip Winemaking linx & FTP, rec.crafts.winemaking FAQ, 1st Baptist Scout Troop (Mtl Que Can), firestarter FAQ, Scouting FTP & Ask-A-Scout(er), Star Trek linx & FTP, Help Stop Spam, Zee Svedish Cheff, Summer Camp selection

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does any one know of a good Blueberry wine recipe? curious in canada.

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Hi,     I have a blueberry wine on the go right now. My recipe calls for the following,     Ingredients/Gallon     2 lbs Blueberries     1 lbs Pumpkin     1 Gal Water     3 lbs sugar or enough to get the S.G. to 1.085     2 Campden Tablets     1/2 tsp Super Yeast Nutrient     2 tsp Acid Blend     1/2 tsp Pectic Enzyme     1Pkg Yeast/5 gal of must     I find Pumpkin to be a good "filler" to any wine.  You can use it to supplement a shortage of another kinf of fruit, or to add a slightly different flavour to any wine.  Another fruit you could use in Rhubarb and it will add a wonderful flavour.  Either of these, are also good on their own.     Hope you find this helpful, Regards, Dewayne

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Question:

Have to to a project on this subject.  can you help me. Please send more info to

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Have to to a project on this subject.  can you help me. Please send more info to

Sure.  Try the following URL’s: http://www.yahoo.com http://www.excite.com Bryan "Thought is a beneficial process for human beings, Excellence.  You should try it yourself on occasion."   –Alexander Antonescu in "At Any Price", David Drake

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Question:

I’m searching for the titles of videos on winemaking. Are there any available? Thanks in advance. Barb Besteni Barbara A. Besteni THE PROFIT PRODUCER Marketing Journal & Web Site Home Of The $50,000 Money Back Guarantee http://www.profitproducer.co

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A video titled "Making Wine" is available for $20 US. It was produced by Bacchus Productions in Toronto and is available from a number of wine making supply houses. It’s only of value to the very novice, once you’ve made a kit or read this group for a while it looses value quickly. Jack – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’m searching for the titles of videos on winemaking. Are there any available? Thanks in advance. Barb Besteni Barbara A. Besteni THE PROFIT PRODUCER Marketing Journal & Web Site Home Of The $50,000 Money Back Guarantee http://www.profitproducer.co

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Question:

 I have made the filter you reffered to but have not had any wine to filter  since then.  The apparatus seems to work ok and (I am anxiously brewing a  beetroot and plum wine as we speak).  I see no reason why the filter  material should be harmefull to wine as it is used to filter drinking  water so is probably inert.  I think that the filter will remove yeast  particles so the fermentation should be finished before filtering.  I  don’t understand your sterile filtration question. If you mean that the  filter should remove bacteria etc, I dont think that is possible without  some sort of active filter material.  Michael

Sterile filtration refers to the removal of yeasts to prevent fermentation from starting again in the bottle. For home winemakers, this is not a guaranteed method since the filtered wine must be kept in a sterile environment (no stray yeasts floating about) until it is safely in bottle. Otherwise, yeast cells could find their way back into the wine and given the right conditions, cause problems. Sterile filtration is only necessary for wines with residual sugar. The 5 micron filter mentioned in the plans will not remove yeast cells. Presque Isle recommends a 0.2 micron cartridge for yeast removal. Brian

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Haller) says: Hi folks, Has anyone built and used the filter described on the WWW site? (http://www.teleport.com/~efa/filter.html)  It looks quite simple to make and use, but is the filter material ok for wine?  Also, will a 5 micron filter (the kind suggested) remove yeast as well as particulates?  How small must the filter be to achieve a sterile filtration? Thanks in advance, Emil

The filter cylinders and the same used by Presque Isle Wine Cellars. I have bought and used .45 micron, 1 micron, and 5 micron filters. They all worked great and were of the string-type, but with different fiber density used in the string and the .45 micron filter has a meter center. I have as posted a picture of the comercial filter system sold by Presque Isle Wine Cellars which uses the same filters. It is true that a 5 micron filter will not remove single cell yeast cells, but it will remove the clusters and greatly reduce the yeast density and other unwanted solids. Happy wine making,  Edwin … P.S. Berry wines should use the 5 micron filter.

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Hi folks, Has anyone built and used the filter described on the WWW site? (http://www.teleport.com/~efa/filter.html)  It looks quite simple to make and use, but is the filter material ok for wine?  Also, will a 5 micron filter (the kind suggested) remove yeast as well as particulates?  How small must the  filter be to achieve a sterile filtration? Thanks in advance, Emil Department of Education Phone:  (607) 255-2267 419 Kennedy Hall                Fax:    (607) 255-7905 Cornell University Ithaca, NY 14853

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Hi folks, Has anyone built and used the filter described on the WWW site? (http://www.teleport.com/~efa/filter.html)  It looks quite simple to make and use, but is the filter material ok for wine?  Also, will a 5 micron filter (the kind suggested) remove yeast as well as particulates?  How small must the filter be to achieve a sterile filtration? Thanks in advance, Emil

I have made the filter you reffered to but have not had any wine to filter since then.  The apparatus seems to work ok and (I am anxiously brewing a beetroot and plum wine as we speak).  I see no reason why the filter material should be harmefull to wine as it is used to filter drinking water so is probably inert.  I think that the filter will remove yeast particles so the fermentation should be finished before filtering.  I don’t understand your sterile filtration question. If you mean that the filter should remove bacteria etc, I dont think that is possible without some sort of active filter material. Michael

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